It’s easy to compare Cornwall to other scenic, charming destinations. The sailboat-filled harbors of Falmouth and St. Mawes evoke the shores of Cape Cod. The rugged northern coast, with its sweeping headlands, feels like Northern California. The charming villages and narrow roads could be part of the Cotswolds or Yorkshire. The affluent areas of Mawgan Porth and Rock suggest the Hamptons or Newport. Cornwall’s waters are filled with lobster, like those in Maine. 

Trying to liken Cornwall to somewhere else, however, only serves to diminish the varied scope of the picturesque region. The British county, located on the southwesternmost tip of England, spans around 1,375 square miles, stretching 75 miles from the remote point of Land’s End in the south to the border with Devon in the north. It’s known for coastal towns like St. Ives, Newquay, Falmouth and Penzance, but Cornwall also encompasses inland villages, forested nature reserves and swathes of hilly farmland. It is comparable in size to Rhode Island, making it a challenge to explore without months of dedicated time.

But it is not impossible to experience Cornwall in a week, or even over a long weekend, as I did in July. It’s a destination best enjoyed in smaller pockets, where you can more fully explore a specific area or a group of towns over a few days. We spent a night in St. Mawes at the historic Idle Rocks, which offered an opportunity to see Falmouth, and then drove onward to the north coast, where The Pig at Harlyn Bay was the perfect base to eat in the culinary mecca of Padstow and to walk the scenic Trevose Headland. Cottage Orné, in the countryside near Looe, provided easy access to the towns of Fowey and Polperro and to the eco-centric gardens at The Eden Project—a must-see in Cornwall. 

“The best thing to do is to find a base and use it,” says Tim Batchelor, hotel director at The Pig at Harlyn Bay, an upscale property set in a historic manor house. “Quite a few people come down to our area for around four days, and then maybe go down to St. Ives for four days.”

Navigating a trip to Cornwall doesn’t need to be overwhelming—there are a few things to know that can help guide you. Here are the best tips for visiting the region, from when to go to what to eat.

Where to go

Cornwall is filled with possibilities. It can feel daunting to determine where to go, but a little research goes a long way. Specific areas in the region are known for certain things. For example, Padstow has a vibrant culinary scene thanks to prominent chefs like Rick Stein, Paul Ainsworth and Rick Toogood. Toogood, who helms Prawn on the Lawn, Little Prawn and Barnaby’s, and his wife, Katie, separately visited Cornwall as children and eventually relocated there from London 11 years ago. 

“It’s important to use somewhere as a home base, whether it’s the Padstow and Rock area or St. Ives,” Rick says. “If you’re down for a week, do a couple of days where you pick a second part of Cornwall. They have their own personalities, and the south coast and north coast are very different. It’s a little calmer on the south coast.” 

Katie adds that Padstow is a good place to start, especially given its location in north Cornwall. It’s near Devon, and it’s 30 minutes from Bodmin Parkway, where trains arrive from London.

“It has that quintessential harbor town feel,” she says. “You’ve got all the lovely shops and restaurants around the harbor. You can get on the ferry to Rock and then explore that side of the estuary. There are seven beaches that are all along the bay from each other, and they are all stunning. So you can walk from beach to beach.”

India Serlin opened Cottage Orné, a group of upscale cottages and renovated houses set in a former hamlet, in January, following a soft launch last September. The property is within a short drive of Looe, a harbor town with beaches, boat tours and kayak rentals, and Fowey, a particularly charming coastal village where North Street Kitchen serves the best crab sandwich I’ve ever had. A slightly longer drive brings you to The Eden Project and the vast 19th-century garden, The Lost Gardens of Heligan. Everywhere you go feels like a discovery. 

“People know Cornwall for the more popular locations,” Serlin says. “Like Newquay and St. Ives, which are known for surfing. This area is a bit more up-and-coming, which I find really interesting. Fowey is already getting pretty trendy. But overall, it feels more real and local, and it has a lot of character. This area has an interesting mix of places, rather than just the surfer towns where people have been coming on holiday for 30 years.”

How to travel there

Although it has always been somewhat popular with Brits, Cornwall has attracted more international visitors in recent years. In 2022, the area welcomed a record five million people, a noteworthy post-pandemic tourism milestone. American travelers tend to focus more on the Cotswolds, Bath or York—all destinations that are easier to access from London by train. Cornwall feels farther away and less accessible, particularly for those flying into Heathrow. In 2024, The Telegraph reported that U.S. visitors seemed to be avoiding Cornwall mainly due to poor transportation links. 

The drive from London to Cornwall is about five hours; it’s the same distance as it is to the coast of North Yorkshire. Regularly running trains from London Paddington reach hubs like Truro, Bodmin Parkway and Penzance in about the same amount of time. Taking the train and going carless, however, can be restricting, especially if you plan to explore multiple areas. Taxis are required from the stations and can be hard to find on a whim. Instead of public transport, it’s worth renting a car. Driving in Cornwall can, admittedly, be daunting thanks to its winding country roads, which are surrounded by tall hedges that block incoming cars, but the sense of freedom overcomes any trepidation. 

“Take it slowly,” Batchelor recommends. “When there are narrow lanes and high hedges, it’s a lot safer to slow down. You’ll get there faster if you go slower because you won’t crash and end up in a hedge. Driving is the best way to make the most of a day. At The Pig, breakfast starts at 7:30 a.m., and most people are ready to be out the door by 8 a.m. Parking can be tricky in the towns—the earlier you arrive, the better.”

When to go

There’s no right or wrong time of year to visit Cornwall. It has, however, traditionally been a summer destination thanks to the beaches, which attract surfers, swimmers and boaters. That is, of course, when it’s sunniest and hottest. Christmas can also be busy, especially in Padstow, which hosts the annual Padstow Christmas Fayre. 

“When we first moved here 11 years ago, it was definitely an Easter to October destination, with a little pocket at Christmas,” Katie Toogood says. “Now, people come during [school holidays] in February and October. And people who don’t have families want to actively avoid those particularly busy times, so those quieter times have started filling up.” 

Cottage Orné is open year-round and keeps its sauna huts and outdoor pool available at all times. Serlin is seeing a lot more visitors interested in wellness.

“People are changing what they’re looking for when they go away,” she notes. “So having a sauna and being able to cold-water swim and being able to do something mindful is something they’re looking for now. There’s also something really magical about coming when it’s cold. It feels really cozy.” 

Contending with chillier weather and rain during the off-season has its upsides, as it can mean fewer crowds. It can also mean better deals. “You can get a bargain,” Batchelor says of The Pig-at-Harlyn Bay. “And more peace and quiet. You need to be aware of places that are closed on some days of the week and to plan your visit well if you’re looking to dine elsewhere other than us. But we’re open every day, all year.”

What to do

A Cornwall itinerary is best planned based on your particular interests, but there are a few attractions that shouldn’t be missed for first-time visitors. The Eden Project, opened in 2001, showcases biodiversity in two enormous biomes built in a former derelict clay pit. It’s home to more than two million plants, both in the domes and in the outdoor gardens, and it’s as beautiful as it is interesting. For history buffs, Tintagel Castle has connections to the lore of King Arthur and St. Michael’s Mount, located on a tidal island, is a former medieval stronghold. 

Sea life abounds in Cornwall. Companies like Padstow Sea Safaris and AK Wildlife Cruise, based in Falmouth, offer opportunities to spot whales, dolphins, seals and birds. Those who want to walk in nature can explore Golitha Falls National Nature Reserve or follow part of the South West Coast Path. For art, the Tate St. Ives showcases modern works, while the Barbara Hepworth Museum & Sculpture Garden is set in the acclaimed artist’s former studio.

Some areas of Cornwall are more remote and require more involved travel. Lizard Point marks the southernmost point of the British mainland. The Minack Theatre, an outdoor theater on the coast south of Penzance, is a very scenic spot to see a play. Even farther are the Isles of Scilly, an archipelago of 140 islands, only five of which are inhabited. 

“It’s the most stunning place,” Katie says. “You can get the ferry, or the helicopter or the plane from Penzance. It takes a couple of hours on the boat or 15 minutes on the helicopter, and you can explore all the islands. There are ferries in between them. The beach on a good day looks like the Caribbean, and there are great little beach restaurants and local pubs.” 

Serlin encourages visitors to Cornwall to take the long route, wherever they’re going. Stop in the villages, walk through the local woods or pop into a pub along the way. It’s that sense of exploration that is most exciting about Cornwall. She also recommends asking locals for advice. 

“It can be hard to find the best pockets,” she says. “And there’s a lot of noise out there in terms of where to go and what’s touristy and what’s worth going to.”

Where to eat

Cornwall is famous for its seafood, particularly crab, lobster, scallops and oysters. But it also has lots of local farms, which means seasonal, fresh produce. There are farm shops in almost every town (and even in between them), and staying somewhere with a kitchen, like Cottage Orné, means you get to make the most of these stores. But foodie visitors shouldn’t miss Padstow. Besides Prawn on the Lawn and Barnaby’s, Michelin-starred eatery Paul Ainsworth at No.6 and the classic Rick Stein’s Café showcase top-notch food. Ainsworth also helms The Mariners in nearby Rock and recently debuted a renovated hotel and restaurant called St. Enodoc. 

The Toogoods also recommend St. Ives for its growing culinary scene. St. Eia, a restaurant and wine shop, is a favorite. Batchelor recently enjoyed Mackerel Sky Seafood Bar in Newlyn. Along the south coast, North Street Kitchen and Hidden Hut draw crowds. In Port Isaac, Nathan Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen has held a Michelin star for its seafood dishes since 2014. The area is also becoming a popular outpost for London chefs: Restaurant Story’s Tom Sellers opened fine-dining restaurant Mor in Carbis Bay Estate in July.

No matter where you eat, look for places that focus on Cornwall’s own ingredients. The restaurant in The Pig at Harlyn Bay, which is open to the public, allows diners to experience the sustainable produce grown in the hotel’s own garden, served alongside local meat and fish. Everything on the menu comes from within 25 miles—a genuine taste of the area. 

“Cornwall has a great abundance,” Batchelor says. “And it is a very proud county. Some people call it its own nation, and it even has its own flag. When you come to visit, be sure to try what’s grown and caught here.”

In February 2007, London Fashion Week came to a boisterous close as Marc Jacobs staged a lavish show at Claridge’s for his Marc by Marc Jacobs line. It was the American designer’s first time showing outside the U.S., and the affair was suitably grand. The front row was filled with A-listers, from Naomi Campbell to Selma Blair to Sofia Coppola. The moment was considered a renaissance for LFW, reigniting the twice-annual event with a sense of fun and flair.

Four years later, Jacobs debuted his decidedly provocative Autumn/Winter 2011 collection as creative director of Louis Vuitton; he revealed that Claridge’s was the inspiration for the dramatic line. “I love it when I see these exquisite creatures coming out of the elevator,” he told the Times. “Some of them maids, hookers, mistresses … it’s very interesting to see who leaves hotels at what time, and what they’re wearing.”

These days, Claridge’s is still closely tied to the fashion world. The five-star Mayfair property has hosted everything from high society balls to fashion shows to Vogue photoshoots to Kate Moss’s 30th birthday party. Audrey Hepburn, Cary Grant, Katharine Hepburn, Anna Wintour, Karl Lagerfeld, Diane von Furstenberg and Christian Dior have all stayed at the hotel. Each year, a different fashion designer creates a unique Christmas tree for the lobby. But how did this particular destination become so entwined with the fashion industry?

“I compare the hotel to the tapestry, and you have the different themes that are running through that tapestry,” Kate Hudson, archivist for Claridge’s, tells Observer. “We can talk about art. We can talk about our royal connections. And we can talk about fashion. We have many fashion links within our history, and we’ve always been part of the fashion world.”

Claridge’s opened in 1812 as the Mivart’s Hotel, occupying a single building in Mayfair. It was sold in 1854 to William and Marianne Claridge, who subsequently expanded the property across the five adjoining buildings and relaunched it as Claridge’s in 1856. Its location in Mayfair—a prestigious, central address—attracted affluent visitors, including Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. The first fashion show held at Claridge’s was in 1911, according to the Evening Standard, which described it as “a large attendance of ladies at Claridge’s Hotel yesterday to witness the opening of a charming exhibition of gowns and millinery.” More than 140 gowns, as well as 100 hats, mantles and furs, were displayed.

Throughout the 1920s and 1930s, Claridge’s was a go-to party venue. The hotel hosted fêtes including costume balls that attracted society’s elite, like The Smith-Winterton Ball in 1911 and The Dream of Fair Women Ball in 1928. For the latter, British photographer Cecil Beaton created elaborate costumes for many attendees, including dramatic looks such as a futuristic nun from 1980 and a voluminous Ascot gown.

“He knew that if he created these extraordinary costumes, they would be photographed and would be in the newspapers, and that is in fact what happened,” Hudson says. “The ball included a fashion parade, which showcased past, present and future looks. When I look at the costumes for My Fair Lady that Beaton created, I can see parallels with some of the costumes he created here 40 years earlier.” 

Claridge’s has been redesigned throughout the years, including the addition of a grand ballroom in 1929. The arrival of the ballroom meant an influx of events, including a big fashion show by British designer Norman Hartnell in 1932 and the Olympian Ball in 1935. “It was a quintessentially Art Deco space,” Hudson says. “It was very new, it was very beautiful and it was very much in vogue.”

World War II put a temporary pause on parties, but Claridge’s never lost its allure. Christian Dior often stayed at the hotel, and he famously gave an interview in Claridge’s lounge in 1947, discussing his New Look line of gowns, which had recently debuted in Paris. Hudson has a copy of the interview in her archives, in which Dior says, “I’m giving women the dresses they want. They’re fed up with the war restrictions. They’re fed up with the tight, straight clothes. My full skirts are a release.”

“He was at the top of the fashion world,” Hudson says. “That’s why there’s been a long connection with the brand.” In 2009, Claridge’s teamed up with Dior on a luxury dressing table, available in select suites, and in 2013, Dior launched a limited-edition Claridge’s makeup palette.

Dior wasn’t the only fashion designer hanging out at Claridge’s. Elsa Schiaparelli stayed at the hotel in the 1950s, and both Oscar de la Renta and Yves Saint Laurent were also guests. Coco Chanel wasn’t an overnight patron, but did visit the hotel regularly for lunch. 

“If you think about London as a whole, Mayfair is one part of London which has always been golden,” Hudson says. “It has proximity to the shopping streets, but it’s also beautiful. Other parts of London have become less fashionable—Piccadilly was immensely fashionable a few hundred years ago, but not so much now. Mayfair has always kept that cachet. Saint Laurent stayed at Claridge’s while doing a presentation for Princess Margaret at Fortnum & Mason [in 1962], for instance.”

British dressmaker Norman Hartnell, who designed Queen Elizabeth II’s June 1953 coronation dress, had a longstanding relationship with Claridge’s. The November before her coronation, the Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers held a private fashion show at the hotel. Queen Elizabeth II and Princess Margaret were among the attendees; the royals were there to look at the fabrics and styles ahead of the investiture. Hartnell was one of 11 couture designers who showcased their work to the royals, and it was just one of the many times he displayed his work in Claridge’s.

“Claridge’s was always known as the royal hotel,” Hudson says. And indeed, it has been a temporary home not only to British royalty like Queen Victoria, but also to foreign monarchs during World War II, including King Peter II of Yugoslavia and King George of Greece. In 1981, Prince Charles and Princess Diana held a wedding reception in the hotel. “It was advertised very heavily as the home of kings and princes,” Hudson adds. “They’re a huge part of our history and of our fashion history.”

For decades, Claridge’s had a dress code that prevented women from wearing trousers into the hotel. This wasn’t an issue for the royals, but several visitors pushed back over the years. In 1951, Katharine Hepburn, an avid wearer of trousers, used the staff entrance after she was told she couldn’t come in through the front. In the early ‘70s, New York fashion retailer Ellin Saltzman wore a tweed Saint Laurent pantsuit while visiting, but was also barred at the door. She removed the trousers and walked in wearing the jacket alone.

“Nowadays, anyone really can wear anything,” Hudson says. “But the lack of dress codes [in hotels] is quite recent. For a long time, Claridge’s was adhering to the old standards and the old traditions.”

As the traditions have loosened and the hotel has evolved, Claridge’s has become specifically known for hosting fashion shows and events. The 1998 opening of Claridge’s Bar, the property’s first standalone cocktail bar, helped to make the hotel a magnet for young people looking for a place to socialize in the evenings. “That was really the turning point when we became very attractive to that fashion world,” Hudson says. 

Claridge’s has since become a favorite venue for London Fashion Week festivities, like the aforementioned Marc Jacobs shows. The hotel has also hosted shows by Roksanda, Harris Reed, Mulberry, Marc Jacobs, Bruce Oldfield, Paul Smith and more. Earlier this year, Reed, a London-based designer, presented a fall ready-to-wear collection in the dimly lit ballroom with celebrities like Lily Collins, Joe Locke and Nicky Hilton in the front row. The theatrical show made a notable splash with its inclusion of a gender-fluid bridal line. “It was really my personal take on maximalism,” the designer explained.

But Claridge’s hasn’t just hosted official fashion shows. The fashion elite has also used the hotel as a venue for more off-kilter antics, most memorably in 2004, when Kate Moss held part of her 30th birthday party, themed “The Beautiful and the Damned,” at Claridge’s. The 34-hour fête, which began and ended at the hotel, was attended by Naomi Campbell, Gwyneth Paltrow, Alexander McQueen, Ronnie Wood, Sadie Frost, Stella McCartney and Chrissie Hynde, all of whom were dressed to the nines. Moss herself wore an ornate blue sequined vintage gown, which was heavily photographed as she entered the hotel, and British Vogue described the party as “a lesson in fashion debauchery.” It’s a moment that has become part of the hotel’s cultural legacy.

“It wasn’t merely that she chose the hotel, which was wonderful, but it was the fact that the theme of the party was ‘The Beautiful and the Damned,’ which is a real throwback to the Art Deco period connected with the hotel,” Hudson says. “It was based on the F. Scott Fitzgerald novel, and F. Scott Fitzgerald stayed at the hotel in the ‘20s. For many people, it’s this sprinkling of magic dust that gives the hotel its glamour and its place in people’s hearts.”

Another sprinkling of magic arrives each December when the Claridge’s Christmas tree is unveiled. Each year, a different fashion designer is enlisted to imagine a tree. The idea came about when Hudson was having lunch with Paula Fitzherbert, head of communications for the Maybourne Group, which owns Claridge’s. At the time, Hudson worked for Dior.

“We always tried to work together,” Hudson says. “We’d done these Dior dressing tables at Claridge’s. It was towards the end of the summer, and John Galliano walked by us. Paula and I do not know which one of us said it, but we said, ‘Wouldn’t it be incredible if he would design a Christmas tree for the hotel?’”

Galliano’s Dior tree, which featured snow leopards, debuted in 2009. Since then, designers including Burberry, Paul Smith, Louis Vuitton, Christian Louboutin, Dolce & Gabbana and Lanvin have all made their mark on the lobby.

“I remember Paula saying, ‘Oh my God, I’m going to be sacked,’” Hudson says. “Because until that time, we’d always had these very classic Christmas trees, and Galliano had created this frozen tree with snow leopards climbing up the branches. It was beautiful, but it was incredibly revolutionary. It was a big risk for the hotel. But now it has become a tradition for the hotel, but also for London. And the rule for the tree is there are no rules.” 

Claridge’s often collaborates with designers and brands beyond the holidays. In 2010, von Furstenberg designed a series of rooms for the hotel. “One of my fondest memories was when I was in London as a young, independent businesswoman and stayed at Claridge’s,” von Furstenberg told British Vogue at the time. “I knew I had made it. To me, Claridge’s is the most glamorous hotel in the world; I regard it as my home away from home.”

 In 2023, Claridge’s held a series of events with Chanel, including intimate talks about the brand’s history. More recently, the hotel teamed up with jewelry brand Annoushka for Claridge’s-themed charms and charm bracelets. Claridge’s is a go-to site for a fashion launch, from Emilia Clarke promoting the Dolce & Gabbana fragrance The One in 2017 to the Leith Clark x Madeleine Thompson Cashmere collection launch in 2021. “You want to find a space that conveys everything you want your brand to say,” Hudson notes. “And Claridge’s does that. It is one of those places where people go who want to be seen.”

It helps, of course, that Claridge’s itself is glamorous. It attracts movie stars and socialites, and it’s been featured in hundreds of photo shoots. Since it opened, Claridge’s has created the feeling of occasion. It’s somewhere people have always gone to dress up, and still do—even if they aren’t an A-lister or attending a glitzy fashion show.

Souvlaki, tzatziki, saganaki—these are just a few of the dishes that have landed on London’s menus over the past year, evidence of an influx of modern, elevated Greek restaurants arriving in the British capital. While London has always had a plethora of dining options, including both casual and more high-end Greek restaurants, in recent months, there has been an unexpected and unprecedented surge of new openings. It’s making a case for more than just a trend, with chefs and restaurateurs showcasing the scope of the regional cuisine in refined, sometimes experimental ways, in the hope that these restaurants will become permanent fixtures. 

“The last real trend was cooking with fire, and before that it was Asian food,” says Louis Korovilas, head chef at Clio, a stylish, contemporary Greek restaurant on Chiltern Street in Marylebone, which opened in April. “It’s Greece’s time in the sun.” Korovilas opines that in the past, people have viewed Greek food as “the ugly duckling of Mediterranean food.” Now, however, he’s noticing people looking at Greek cuisine through a “different lens.”

To be clear, there have been Greek restaurants in London for decades. Elysée opened as a French eatery in 1936, but after it was purchased by George, Michael and Ulysses Karageorgis in 1962, it was transformed into a memorable Greek spot. It’s evolved to keep up with the times, now embracing a modern, upscale vibe suited to Mayfair, but has always attracted well-to-do diners, including figures like Prince Philip and Muhammad Ali. 

More casual restaurants, like Halepi and Andy’s Taverna, have also been around since the 1960s. The 2010s brought in a few more, including Mazi, in Notting Hill, in 2012. But for many years, the number of Greek restaurants paled in comparison to the plethora of Italian, Indian and Lebanese eateries around London. When Christina Mouratoglou co-founded Mazi with her husband and business partner, Adrien Carré, she says the “Greek food scene didn’t exist at all.” While that is not entirely true, it’s fair to say that that type of elevated offering was certainly rare.

“I didn’t have a restaurant background before, but I was always into food and obsessed with food,” says Mouratoglou, who grew up in Thessaloniki. “I wanted to show people what really good Greek food is. And what it is and what it’s not, because there were a lot of misconceptions at the time.”

She describes the Greek restaurant scene in London at the time as “very basic.” “It was mainly Cypriot-focused because there were a lot of Cypriot immigrants that came here in the ‘60s,” Mouratoglou says, referencing the vast number of people from Cyprus who moved to the U.K. before the country gained independence from Britain in 1960. “They had their cuisine, which is very different to mainland Greek cuisine.”

Mazi opened in 2012, and within a few years, Mouratoglou began to notice similar eateries, including Marylebone’s Opso (2014) and St. James’s Estiatorio Milos (2015). “But it’s only been the last couple of years that we’ve really seen a lot more,” she declares of the growing Greek restaurant scene in London.

The number of new Greek openings is substantial, even by London standards, where several new restaurants debut every week. In 2024, Oma and Agora made a splash in Borough Market. Last year saw the arrival of Pyro, Myrtos and Lagana. This year, the city welcomed Clio, Zylia and Fenix Mayfair, in addition to Taverna Ermou, an established import from Athens. For Mouratoglou, the reason is twofold: Some of the restaurants simply represent people jumping on what they see as a trend because that is what sells, but others are sincere, playing on a newfound love for Greece itself. 

“There are a lot of people who recently have traveled to Greece and fallen in love with it,” Mouratoglou says. “They genuinely fell in love with the country and the food. Traditionally, people in England would mostly visit Spain, Italy and France, but now Greece has overtaken all of these summer destinations.” 

The statistics agree: In 2022, 4.5 million Brits visited Greece, up from less than three million in 2021. In 2025, British tourists spent a notably high amount per visit to Greece, second only to American visitors, according to a study from the Institute of the Greek Tourism Confederation. And, anecdotally, it seems like everyone in London has spent time in Athens or on one of the islands this year.

Nick Molyviatis, co-founder of Zylia, which combines Greek and Cypriot inspirations and dishes, agrees that this development in London comes down to awareness. People are more comfortable eating food they know or have previously tried. Now, because more diners have visited Greece, there’s more openness to experiencing the broader palate of the cuisine. These more contemporary Greek restaurants avoid clichés such as classical columns and statues and blue-and-white decor, and emphasize the convivial nature of Greek dining. 

“It’s less of a gimmick and more about the food,” Molyviatis says. “There is a very big difference in the cuisine between the islands and the mountains and the fields. Most people know about how the south of Spain and the north of Spain are very different, and hopefully in a few years people will have this understanding about Greek and Cypriot food.”

Korovilas has noticed that both diners and chefs are becoming more aware of the broader scope of Greek food. He recalls a short stint at culinary school when he was getting started as a chef, and a teacher turning her nose up when he said he was Greek. “She said, ‘Yeah, we don’t do that here,’” he remembers. “Greek food has always been a dirty word [in the culinary world] because people associated it with souvlaki and [fries]. Now people are starting to realize that it’s much more than that.”

Korovilas points out that there was a time when Italian food in London consisted of basic dishes like spaghetti Bolognese and chicken Parmesan. It’s evolved dramatically since, but it’s also become an oversaturated market. “So now everyone’s trying to do the lesser-known stuff,” Korovilas says.

Each of the new restaurants has a slightly different focus. Zylia, which opened in May, showcases Molyviatis’ Athenian heritage alongside his co-founder Barry Karacostas’ roots in Cyprus. They compromised over which version of a dish would appear on the menu. The tzatziki, a yogurt-and-cucumber dip, for instance, is Karacostas’ rendition. 

“We had a mutual understanding of the fact that we wanted the ingredients to shine,” Molyviatis says. “Greek food is very simple in nature, so there is nowhere to hide. We decided we were going to do things that made sense to us and how we grew up.”

At Clio, Korovilas, whose family is from the Peloponnese mountain region of Greece, wants to showcase dishes that Londoners might not be as familiar with. One of his signature dishes is rabbit stifado, a classic stew featuring braised rabbit. 

“We’re trying to get away from fried calamari and all those seaside classics that we all love,” he says. “I love them, too, but I’m looking at ingredient-led dishes. We don’t want to import all of our vegetables—we want to use what’s in season up here.”

He estimates that Clio uses 50 percent Greek ingredients and 50 percent local products from the U.K. Some things, like thyme, are inimitable. Korovilas gets his from the Greek mountains. “It reminds me of when I’m driving through Greece,” he says. “When we’re developing a dish, I’m looking for those smells and feelings. I’m chasing that authenticity.”

In that vein of authenticity, the chef imports his olive oil from Greece, where his uncle makes it in the hills of Kalamata. It’s produced on a small scale, so Clio has exclusivity to it in London. “We’ll probably stamp it with our name at some point,” Korovilas says. “At the moment, it comes in a blank barrel. But it’s fantastic.” 

Mouratoglou’s latest restaurant, Maza, focuses on dishes and flavors from Athens. She grew up in Thessaloniki, but spent a lot of time with her family in the country’s capital. 

“Maza was inspired by my upbringing in the ‘80s and the food I remember eating as a small kid,” Mouratoglou says. “Not to try to be too modern, not try to be intrusive, taking something simple and using good cooking techniques, good seasoning, good ingredients.”

The chicken souvlaki, an immediate favorite among diners, is a careful recreation of a version she remembers from a hole-in-the-wall spot in Thessaloniki. The meatballs are dubbed “Grandmama’s meatballs.” Other dishes are more modern in their approach. It was important to Mouratoglou that nothing was fussy or overdone. 

“I wanted to be pure,” she says. “So the octopus is octopus with capers, lemon, olive and oregano. That’s how you would get it in a taverna in a village in Greece. We just use better techniques. It’s more elevated than what you would get in a small town on the sea.”

At Pyro, chef Yiannis Mexis, who grew up between Mykonos and Athens, is toying with less traditional versions of classic dishes. He calls the food Greek-inspired, which explains why his take on spanakopita is served as a Portuguese pastel de nata. 

“At the end of the day, you’re not in Greece, you’re not in Mykonos where I grew up, you are in London,” Mexis explains. “The guests coming here to eat are accustomed to different palates and textures and flavors and standards. So you need to deliver to that. And I don’t want to showcase just one region. I want to showcase Greece as a whole, and I want to do it in a refined, tasteful way.”

Pyro’s menu features the expected dishes, but each is elevated in a unique way. The pita is made with potato sourdough and grilled on an open flame. A delicious raw sea bream crudo arrives inside the whole fish, laced with green olives and caper leaves. There’s the usual suckling pig, lamb and beef options for the main course, but other options are more surprising, like Silver Hill Farm duck served with figs. 

“We’re using the dried figs from Kymi, a town in Greece that produces figs,” Mexis says. “In Greece, we have a fava dip, and we also have a stew that is made with duck in the northern area of Greece. This dish uses all of that influence from Greece, but it’s devised in a way by someone who lives in the U.K. If you know the connection, it’s very Greek-inspired.”

Previously, very few companies imported Greek ingredients into the U.K. These days, chefs have more options. Zylia uses Lygias Dairy Products for halloumi and Kostarelos for six-month barrel-aged feta. The restaurant also imports dried mint, oregano and olive oil. Molyviatis says getting the best products has gotten easier. 

“The more restaurants that open, the more it raises awareness,” he says. “And the more that open, the more supplies start to be available to us. Ten years ago, there was hardly any [Greek] product available, but right now there’s more product, and there’s competition between suppliers, so it brings more things in, and that makes it more interesting.” 

The same holds true for Greek wine. Maza’s wine list is 100 percent Greek, and many of the cocktails are made with Greek spirits, like mastiha. 

“Suppliers always thank us for creating a market that didn’t exist before,” Mouratoglou said. “We have wines from all over the country, from small producers, from big producers, from big names, from small names. The evolution over the last 15 years is incredible, and if a lot of these wines had a French label, they could be sold three or four times more [money].”

At Pyro, 65 percent of the wine list is Greek. “The wines there are equal to some of the best wines in the world,” Mexis says. “Now, you have a lot more people like me who want to celebrate the producers and winemakers from Greece. It’s down to the chefs and the suppliers and the restaurateurs to play their roles in helping to create a new narrative around Greek gastronomy and Greek culture.” 

Whether these elevated takes on Greek cuisine are here to stay in London or are merely another of the city’s frequent culinary trends remains to be seen. The explosion of modern, hip restaurants is undeniably exciting for diners, especially since none of the menus is quite the same. It represents the possibility of discovery, especially if you’re trying to recapture the magic of a recent trip to Greece. As many chefs point out, it’s also exciting to see restaurants that don’t capitalize on clichés. 

“The new wave of Greek restaurants is about avoiding gimmicks,” Molyviatis says. “No more olive branches on the menus or yelling ‘Opa!’ It’s about the food. Hopefully, more restaurants will open. One of my old bosses, years ago, said, ‘If Italians can do a restaurant on every corner, why can’t Greeks?’ And it’s true.” 

London is filled with high-end hotels, from renowned brand names to small, elegant boutique properties. Some hotels, like The Twenty Two and Claridge’s, have become unofficial gathering points during Fashion Week, while others, like At Sloane, offer a reprieve from the action. Although LFW does have an official hotel partner, The Londoner, its location in the heart of Leicester Square is rather hectic and can be overwhelming for those who want a break from the hustle and bustle; plus, it’s lacking in quality bars and restaurants. Instead, look for more discerning options around the city center, a bustling area that is best enjoyed when you have a comfortable bed to return to at the end of the day. Here are the 12 best hotels to stay in during London Fashion Week.

Broadwick Soho

• 20 Broadwick St, London W1F 8HT

Located in the heart of the bustling Soho neighborhood, the Broadwick is a boutique hotel that leans toward maximalist glamour. It’s home to 57 vibrant rooms, an Italian restaurant, a rooftop bar and a hidden lounge open only to guests. It tends to attract a particularly fashionable set of travelers, especially to the rooftop bar, Flute, which offers a terrace and views of the city. Even the smaller rooms are well-appointed, but the suites have a serious wow factor, particularly if you go for the Penthouse, which boasts immaculate decorative touches like a custom minibar inside an elephant sculpture. The location can mean some noise at night, but that’s all part of the vibe.

The Twenty Two

• 22 Grosvenor Sq, London W1K 6LF

Since opening in 2022, The Twenty Two has quickly established itself as a go-to spot for fashionistas. It’s equal parts luxury boutique hotel and members’ club, with 31 bedrooms set into a chic Grade II-listed Edwardian manor on the edge of Mayfair. The décor is patterned and colorful, with each room or suite dressed up in a slightly different way. A stay comes with butler service, a Dyson hairdryer and access to the members’ club, a notably hot ticket. Expect to see people you know—or want to know—dining at the restaurant throughout LFW; everyone from Kylie Jenner to Tom Cruise has been spotted there. Guests who want to stay fit can take advantage of a partnership with the nearby BXR Marylebone.

At Sloane

• 1 Sloane Gardens, London SW1W 8EA

Tucked away just off Sloane Square, At Sloane has become one of London’s most in-the-know boutique hotels since opening in the fall of 2023. It’s set in a renovated 19th-century mansion, with 30 accommodations ranging from charming essentials-only rooms to more opulent dual-bedroom suites. Each is decorated with a mix of antique furnishings and modern amenities. The hotel bar hosts resident DJs late into the evening, and a top-floor restaurant is inspired by Jekyll and Whistler’s famous 1876 Peacock Room. At Sloane is all about discretion—no photos are allowed in the restaurant, and it tends to avoid notice from passersby.

Mandarin Oriental Mayfair

• 22 Hanover Square, London W1S 1JP

Opened in 2024 on Hanover Square, Mandarin Oriental Mayfair is the luxury brand’s second property in London. It’s relatively compact, with only 50 rooms and suites, but the amenities are substantial. The expansive spa features a swimming pool and bespoke treatments, like a customized radiance glow facial, and the gym is one of the better hotel fitness centers in London, thanks to its enormous size. There’s a chic all-day dining restaurant, as well as a rooftop bar and a very good seafood spot, Mazarine, next door. The rooms and suites are sleek and modern, outfitted in a floral color palette with extremely comfortable beds. It’s ideal for accessing the designer shops on Bond Street, as well as nearby art galleries and Savile Row.

Hotel Café Royal

• 10 Air St, London W1B 5AB

Overlooking Piccadilly Circus, Hotel Café Royal brings guests directly into the action of London, but without the noise and crowds. The five-star hotel dates back to 1865 and has been frequented by the likes of Oscar Wilde, Princess Diana, Winston Churchill and David Bowie. The spa is immaculate, with a pool and a large gym that will help keep you sane before and after the fashion shows. The hotel is home to one of London’s best afternoon tea experiences, served in the historic Café Royal Grill, and to Alex Dilling at Hotel Café Royal, which boasts two Michelin stars. The 159 guest rooms and suites are elegant and refined, and it’s worth splurging on a view of Regent Street.

1 Hotel Mayfair

• 3 Berkeley St, London W1J 8DL

Despite its location in bustling Mayfair, this eco-friendly luxury hotel is surprisingly serene. The interiors surely contribute to that feeling; it’s filled with plants, including within the 181 rooms and suites, which are decorated with reclaimed wood, earthy tones and natural stone. Even the more compact rooms feel spacious by central London standards, and guests also have access to the Bamford Wellness Spa and a well-equipped gym. Dovetale, from British chef Tom Sellers, is a great spot for dinner or a Sunday roast (complete with a famous ice cream sundae trolley), while Dover Yard Bar serves casual bites and cocktails.

The Hari

• 20 Chesham Pl, London SW1X 8HQ

Situated on a leafy street in Belgravia, The Hari is a hidden gem in the city. The London hotel is outfitted with 85 rooms, but still feels much more intimate, particularly when it comes to the service. It’s art-filled and modern, with comfortable touches like cushy window seats in the rooms and bathtubs that overlook the nearby park. There’s a gym, garden terrace and lively bar, but the hotel’s Italian restaurant, Il Pampero, is the highlight of the public spaces. It features a tiramisu trolley, as well as a menu of authentic dishes that stand out amongst the city’s many Italian eateries. The Hari is close enough to Chelsea and Mayfair to feel accessible, but will offer a respite from the hectic schedule of LFW.

Claridge’s

• Brook St, London W1K 4HR

Claridge’s is London’s original fashion hotel. The historic property, part of Maybourne, opened its doors in 1856 and has been a staple of the city and the neighborhood since. The Mayfair hotel has since grown to 269 rooms and suites, including the four-bedroom Penthouse and the two-bedroom Royal Suite. The décor is tastefully historic, with opulent touches like gold ornamentation and plush drapery. The hotel’s afternoon tea is known for its elegant setting and top-notch scones, and the property recently welcomed New York establishment Dante into one of its dining rooms. Those looking to unwind can visit Claridge’s Spa, a wellness haven with skin treatments by Dr. Barbara Sturm.

The Mandrake

• 20-21 Newman St, London W1T 1PG

Walking into The Mandrake feels like entering a modern art museum, fused with a leafy tropical garden. The contemporary boutique hotel, just off Oxford Street in Fitzrovia, is centered around an open courtyard that extends to the rooms above. The 33 rooms and suites are quiet, with an option for a terrace room that overlooks the plants outside. There is an ongoing calendar of fashion, art and cultural events in the hotel, and guests can take advantage of a wellness concierge, who can set up soundbath experiences or schedule guests with a shamanic healer. The Jurema Terrace bar is perfect for an afternoon cocktail, while Yopo Zaytoun serves Eastern Mediterranean dishes in a vibrant space. If you are feeling particularly flush, book into The Penthouse, an opulent, marble-filled suite.

L’oscar London

• 2-6 Southampton Row, London WC1B 4AA

Boutique hotel L’oscar London’s Covent Garden location is particularly convenient for London Fashion Week, as well as for exploring the city itself. Positioned between Holborn and the Strand, L’oscar has completely transformed the former London headquarters of the Baptist Church. It’s stylish and theatrical, with a Parisian flair. There are 39 individually designed rooms, all with high ceilings, big windows and colorful touches. The golden-hued L’oscar suite, with an enormous headboard and plush furnishings, is particularly impressive—an ideal place to experience LFW. L’oscar Restaurant serves an eclectic menu of European and Japanese-inspired dishes, and guests can also partake in afternoon tea.

The Soho Hotel

• 4 Richmond Mews, London W1D 3DH

The Soho Hotel, part of the Firmdale Hotels group, is a favorite of Hollywood, often hosting movie press junkets and celebrities like Kate Hudson throughout the year. Co-founder Kit Kemp’s signature style is prominent throughout, with bold colors and patterns and unusual artwork. Most of the 96 bedrooms and suites have large windows and lots of light—an unusual feature for a hotel in the center of Soho, surrounded by other buildings. The restaurant and bar are always buzzing, often with someone recognizable, and there are two screening rooms on the lower level. It’s casual but sophisticated, an ideal place to stay during LFW.

Beaverbrook Townhouse

• 115-116 Sloane St, London SW1X 9PJ

Those in the know have probably spent a weekend at Beaverbrook, a country hotel south of London with a particularly memorable spa, which features unique treatments like a soundbath massage and a hyperbaric oxygen chamber. The hotel’s more intimate sister property, Beaverbrook Townhouse, is located more centrally, just off Sloane Square in Chelsea. Each of the 14 bedrooms is themed around a historic West End theater and is whimsically decorated, offering a sense of fun for guests. Downstairs, the Fuji Grill—a very good Japanese restaurant—and Sir Frank’s Bar are great for a quiet evening in. Pavilion Road, filled with shops, restaurants and cafes, is around the corner, and the shopping on King’s Road is easily accessible. It’s best paired with a stay at Beaverbrook, a welcome respite after a busy Fashion Week.

Although LFW shows tend to happen all over London, often in cultural venues or museums, most attendees congregate around Soho, Mayfair and Covent Garden—neighborhoods with plenty of good restaurants, bars and members’ clubs. The designers, stylists, models and A-list celebs gather for official afterparties and unofficial dinners, often taking over private dining rooms or even entire restaurants. While you’re not guaranteed to see someone important during LFW, spending time in certain places increases your likelihood. Here are the 15 best restaurants, bars and members’ clubs to see and be seen during London Fashion Week.

Simpson’s in the Strand

• 100 Strand, London WC2R 0EW

The revitalized Simpson’s in the Strand, which reopened in March, is an ideal spot to mingle with a buzzy crowd, whether it’s during breakfast, at the bar or during the very popular dinnertime rush. Since coming back to life, the historic venue has hosted events for British Vogue, GQ and Burberry, quickly cementing its status in the fashion industry. It’s home to two restaurants, Grand Divan and Romano’s, along with Simpson’s Bar, and the food is classic English, some of which arrives tableside on the iconic trolleys. It will certainly host more events during LFW, but you can also book a table yourself.

Osteria Vibrato

• 6 Greek St, London W1D 4DE

Since opening in February, Osteria Vibrato has wooed diners with its buzzy atmosphere and Italian dishes that showcase the cuisine of various regions across Italy. It’s chaotic and loud, with tables packed together and drinks arriving rapidly. It feels like New York by way of Italy, and the crowd tends to reflect that, comprising Soho locals, London foodies and discerning visitors. Share the white risotto with 30-month Parmigiano Reggiano, an easy favorite that never leaves the menu, and be sure to take advantage of the wine list, which features Italian and French labels.

Toklas

• 1 Surrey St, Temple, London WC2R 2ND

Toklas, located in the hip 180 Strand building, comes with a strong pedigree before you even walk in the door. The Mediterranean-inspired restaurant is owned by Amanda Sharp and Matthew Slotover, the co-founders of the Frieze Art Fair. Art by Wolfgang Tillmans and Ragna Bley covers the walls, and the space is vibrant and busy during both lunch and dinner. The menu changes seasonally, often highlighting British produce and ingredients. Their vegetable dishes are as good as anything with meat or fish, and the bar menu includes a variety of N/A and alcoholic options. It’s a favorite with celebrities, too: Donatella Versace, Dua Lipa and Alexa Chung are among past guests.

Café Cecilia

• 32 Andrews Rd, London E8 4FX

Although it’s slightly off the beaten path in Hackney, Café Cecilia has a serious fashion pedigree—it’s helmed by Max Rocha, son of fashion designer John Rocha and brother to Simone Rocha. Before opening Café Cecilia, Rocha catered various art and fashion shoots, and his family’s sharp aesthetic translates into his food, which is elegantly simple. The Guinness bread is a must, as is whatever fish dish he’s cooking that day. The restaurant also serves breakfast, ideal for an early meeting on the east side.

Maison François

• 34 Duke St, St James’s, London SW1Y 6DF

French brasserie Maison François, located in St. James, has become one of London’s go-to breakfast spots since it opened in 2020. The vast menu, which features everything from eggs to pastries to quinoa porridge, is as attractive as its casual-chic vibe. It serves an all-day menu later on, and the convivial atmosphere is well suited to groups or a one-on-one rendezvous. It’s one of those places where you never know who you might see at the adjacent table: Florence Pugh celebrated her birthday in the restaurant, and Poppy Delevingne and Princesses Beatrice and Eugenie popped by the opening party.

One Club Row

• 1 Club Row, London E1 6JX

One Club Row draws on influences from both New York and Paris, yet it also feels distinctly part of the London scene. The hip restaurant opened its doors in 2025 and instantly became the go-to place in Shoreditch, enticing diners with its martinis and its cheeseburger, the latter of which arrives with a perfect side of au poivre sauce for dipping. It’s a place where cool people—including Dua Lipa—drink, eat and go on dates, and it will impress anyone you need to take out during London Fashion Week. The martinis and the burger are the most popular orders, but you can’t go wrong with any of the cocktails or with the moules frites, a lighter option for those rushing between fashion shows.

Apricity

• 68 Duke St, London W1K 6JU

Sustainability tends to be a hot topic during Fashion Week, and there’s nowhere better suited to have the conversation than Apricity, a Mayfair restaurant that prioritizes low waste, foraged ingredients and seasonal produce. There are plenty of plant-based dishes on offer, and chef-owner Chantelle Nicholson uses creative techniques to ensure everything is as Earth-friendly as possible. The dining room is artistically elegant, with purposefully unfinished walls and sculptural lighting. This is one you’ll want to book in advance, especially if you’re bringing a small crowd.

Kumori

• 26 Denman St, London W1D 7HX

Los Angeles visitors will surely delight upon discovering that the quintessentially California baked crab hand roll has appeared in London courtesy of Kumori, a contemporary Japanese spot in Soho. The restaurant is vibrant, fun and perfect for a quick, delicious meal if you don’t have much time between fashion shows. The hand rolls are made to order and handed to diners, and the menu also includes sashimi and crispy rice with tuna. Kumori has collaborated with The Twenty Two, a boutique hotel beloved by the fashion set, and recently popped up at the Monaco F1 Grand Prix. The crowd tends to be young, interesting and interested. Expect them to collaborate with a fashion brand during LFW.

The Hart

• 56 Blandford St, London W1U 7JA

The fiery demise of Chiltern Firehouse last year left a void on the popular Marylebone street, which has always been a haven for celebrities and fashionistas. The Hart, from the Public House group, has stepped in to fill that gap. The chic pub, which serves thoughtful, deceptively simple British cuisine, is almost impossible to book unless you plan in advance—and that’s exactly why you’ll want to go. It serves a great selection of wine and bubbles, and the in-crowd often goes there for weekday lunch. It’s actually good, not just busy. With Chiltern Firehouse not scheduled to reopen until next April, The Hart has plenty of time to establish itself as the new local hotspot.

Annabel’s

• 46 Berkeley Square, London W1J 5AT

London’s hottest members’ club is still Annabel’s, the Mayfair hotspot that hosts parties for every special event in town, from Fashion Week to the BAFTA Awards. It’s been open since 1963 and has welcomed everyone from Kate Moss to Mick Jagger to Princess Diana. Its exclusivity and discretion tend to attract the true glitterati, whether it’s for drinks or dinner, and the club is exceptionally popular during LFW. You’re sure to see someone of note inside—that is, if you can get in. If you do, dress the part: Annabel’s has a strict dress code (no ripped denim, formal shoes, no shorts for men under any circumstances, and a required blazer for men after 6 p.m.).

Café Deco

• 43 Store St, London WC1E 7DB

Café Deco, a seasonal British restaurant, has the appeal of delicious food and a quiet location in Bloomsbury, not far from busy Covent Garden. It’s helmed by chef Anna Tobias, who serves thoughtfully simple dishes that highlight local ingredients alongside a solid wine list. It’s tasteful rather than ostentatious, which has made it a preferred post-show spot for editors, stylists and designers to host private dinners. Best of all: no one will spill on who they’ve seen there, so you can dine without feeling watched. Don’t skip out on the egg mayonnaise starter, a dish that will impress even the most fussy of diners.

Dante Mayfair

• Brook St, London W1K 4HR

After a successful pop-up in Claridge’s last year, New York import Dante officially set up shop in the Mayfair hotel in mid-June. It’s notably grander than its historic Greenwich Village sister, which has welcomed celebrities like Al Pacino, Bob Dylan, Patti Smith and Robert Mapplethorpe. It features a light-filled dining room and a small outdoor terrace; guests can opt to come in for breakfast or the all-day dining menu. The food is very good, especially the raw seafood, and the grilled mains and kale salad will definitely suit those in town for LFW.

Bar Finch

• 31 Cork St, London W1S 3NQ

Filmmaker and publisher Charles Finch is behind Bar Finch, a recent addition to London’s bar scene. It’s touted as a classic aperitivo bar, although the Mayfair spot serves a full menu of Italian dishes, including grilled fish, pasta and a dynamite Caesar salad. Breakfast and bar snacks are also available, and the drinks list pays homage to Finch’s work, including a cocktail called A Rabbit’s Foot after his own magazine. The bar has already hosted events for Chanel and Mulberry, and the opening party in June brought in a swanky set of attendees, from Daphne Guinness to Marisa Abela.

Poon’s at Somerset House

• Lancaster Pl, London WC2R 1LA

After years of pursuing other paths, Amy Poon relaunched her father’s famous Chinese restaurant in Somerset House last November. The original, which debuted in 1973, was a favorite of celebrities like Mick Jagger and Barbra Streisand, and made Bill Poon the first Chinese chef to earn a Michelin star. The new iteration is artsy and comfortable, with stylish decor and a historic setting. The food is great for sharing if you’re in a group, and the N/A drinks are just as good as the alcoholic ones. Like the best fashion, Poon’s at Somerset House is effortlessly elegant and timeless.

Gymkhana

• 42 Albemarle St, London W1S 4JH

Indian fine dining restaurant Gymkhana played host to Taylor Swift and Travis Kelce earlier this year, another notch in the two Michelin-starred eatery’s belt. The food is served as a tasting menu or à la carte, and guests can opt to sit across two distinct floors. There’s also a chic cocktail lounge and a private dining room, which attract designers, A-listers and models throughout LFW. Not only is the restaurant popular, but it’s also very good, showcasing elevated Indian cuisine in a particularly Instagrammable way.

Mount St. Restaurant

• 41-43 Mount St, London W1K 2RX

Located above the Audley Public House pub in Mayfair, Mount St. Restaurant is known for its refined, seasonal British dishes and its impressive art collection, including works by David Hockney, Lucien Freud and Andy Warhol. Its private event spaces attract fashion brands like Chanel and Paul Smith, and designers and editors can be spotted in the dining room throughout London Fashion Week. It’s open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, all of which are buzzy times to dine, and the Sunday lunch menu is a great opportunity for weekend gatherings. Even if you don’t glimpse a celebrity, the art is worth the visit.

Before moving to Greece to open Pelagos, a fine dining restaurant in the Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel Athens, Luca Piscazzi had only been to the country on vacation. The Italian chef grew up in Rome and moved to London at 19, hoping to learn about global flavors and techniques. He spent over a decade between England, China, Spain and Hong Kong, never imagining that his culinary journey would one day bring him to the shores of the Athens Riviera. But in 2020, Piscazzi departed La Dame de Pic, a two-Michelin-starred restaurant in London’s Four Seasons Ten Trinity Square, for the opportunity to launch something of his own in Greece.

“I never thought I’d end up here,” Piscazzi tells Observer, speaking from his office at Pelagos in June. “We started talking about this idea in November or December of 2019, and I came to visit. I signed my paperwork right before Covid hit, and I relocated the day before the U.K. closed its borders [in March 2020]. It was a leap.” 

Pelagos tends to surprise diners. Piscazzi’s menus showcase years of discovery in Greece using techniques he’s developed around the world—a compelling way to dine while traveling. Piscazzi is attracted to unconventional pairings, like pan-fried sole served with raspberries and Champagne. He’s constantly coming up with new dishes.

“In the night, I’m up thinking about how things can work,” he says. “And the solution always comes to me just as I’m falling asleep. You can’t rush creativity, and it doesn’t work if you’re stressed out. I’m always playing around and looking for the next good idea.”

Surprisingly, the restaurant was initially inspired by Asian cuisine. But when Covid delayed its opening, the team had the chance to home in on the menu. It made more sense to focus on local Greek dishes, flavors and products, rather than look farther afield. Piscazzi began to investigate Greek ingredients; he already felt a kinship with the region, having grown up in a Mediterranean country. 

“I found similarities,” he says. “Here you have ouzo, which is like pastis in France or sambuca in Italy. But I also found things that were unique, like mastic. They use it for making liqueur, but we could use it in different ways. We melt it like a caramel, or we dry age fish inside this crust of mastic resin.”

The chef likes to discover new ingredients and find new ways of working with them. “If you’re from somewhere, you might not think outside the box, but if you’re not, you try things that are unexpected,” he says. “After 20 years as a chef around the world, it’s difficult to get surprised. But mastic was something I’d never used before.”

Pelagos opened in May of 2021. Situated on an upper floor of one of the hotel’s mid-century buildings, it overlooks the blue waters of the Saronic Gulf, with the option for guests to dine on the expansive terrace. The interiors pay homage to Greece’s maritime traditions, though not ostentatiously; it’s the view that truly captivates diners. Piscazzi plays into the beauty of the location by offering dishes that are just as aesthetically pleasing. “In a location like this, people start the meal in a nice mood,” Piscazzi says. “It’s an added step in making the guest happy.”

Piscazzi changes the menu at Pelagos twice a year, updating the dishes with the seasons. Guests can opt for a tasting menu (€150 per person), but à la carte is more popular. Most of the dishes are based around ingredients from Greece and the Mediterranean, incorporating local products and storytelling, but Piscazzi also draws on his Italian roots. The caviar pasta, a deliciously chilled, umami dish, underscores the chef’s background. It was on Pelagos’ first menu, and hasn’t left since.

“I wanted to have a caviar dish,” Piscazzi says. “The idea was to have a lot of caviar and a little bit of pasta. I wrote down this combination of clams, almonds and caviar with cold pasta. I tried it, and the first time it was perfect. It’s 20 grams of pasta and 10 grams of caviar. Sometimes we change things over and over again, but some dishes I try one time, and they just work.” 

The current menu, launched in May of 2026, is arranged by ingredients. It’s presented at the restaurant on beautifully crafted tarot cards, each showcasing a specific product, such as black angus beef from the island of Naxos or Koilada red prawns. The chosen ingredient is served as two different dishes, a starter and a main, which means a guest is locked into one product as the hero of their meal. Piscazzi isn’t personally into tarot, but felt like the cards would be a good way to celebrate ingredients. 

“When you serve an à la carte menu, you lose a little bit of the storytelling and the voyage you want guests to have,” he says. “This is like a small, set menu based on an ingredient. We use different parts of the meat or fish, and we cook them in different ways. You won’t get bored if you select one ingredient.”

Piscazzi’s knowledge of Greek ingredients comes from extensive research and travel. In 2022, Piscazzi launched his first Pelagos on Tour menu, a tasting menu inspired by experiences on the Aegean islands of Tinos, Lesvos and Kalymnos. He spent a few days on each isle, meeting with artisan producers, fishermen and fellow chefs. “The Cyclades islands have mostly the same ingredients, so that’s why we picked other islands, too: one a bit north and one very south,” Piscazzi says. 

The chef liked the idea of exploring his new home. “I came up with this idea for me to discover Greece and ingredients and travel for free to create a little bit of storytelling, because we were struggling with how to identify ourselves. Were we a Mediterranean restaurant? A seafood restaurant? So we decided to go and document everything to ensure the concept felt real.” 

On Tinos, Piscazzi encountered kariki, a Greek cheese that is matured inside pumpkins. Lesvos and Kalymnos offered opportunities to try different types of seafood, including swordfish roe in Kalymnos. The following year, Piscazzi went to Crete and brought back escargots, graviera cheese and olive oil for the 2023 summer menu. For the third and final year of Pelagos on Tour for the summer menu concept, the chef incorporated ingredients from Sifnos, Santorini and Naxos, an island famous for its beef and potatoes. 

In each place, he discovered a lot of ingredients specific to the islands. “The beef from Naxos is the only beef you have in Greece,” he says. “It’s all sheep and goats here. But having these kinds of restrictions can help you be more creative.”

Piscazzi began cooking in restaurants at 15 as a summer job. He studied the culinary arts during high school in Rome, but says “it wasn’t the best school in Italy.” He picked up a lot of his culinary knowledge from his grandmother, who was always cooking. “I woke up early on Sundays to help her to make lasagna and ravioli,” he remembers. 

After completing his culinary studies, Piscazzi moved to London and began working at the now-closed Apsley’s by Heinz Beck at The Lanesborough in 2009. He went on to work at La Pergola by Heinz Beck in Rome, The Ledbury in London, El Celler de Can Roca in Girona and Amber by Richard Ekkebus in Hong Kong. In 2016, Piscazzi became head chef at La Dame de Pic, helmed by acclaimed chef Anne-Sophie Pic. There, it was possible to source almost anything, from Ethiopian coffee to kumquats. Being in Athens means far less access. 

“We are a little bit restricted, especially with vegetables and fruit,” he says. “We work with what we have. Compared to Hong Kong or London, where you can get a Japanese ingredient or citrus from Italy and a selection of unique ingredients, it’s harder. But here, maybe you go to an island, and you find an amazing guy who grows vegetables.”

At La Dame de Pic, the namesake chef only came in once or twice a year. That meant that Piscazzi was able to execute Pic’s vision in his own way, which helped to refine his style.  

“I embraced her style of cooking, but I was cooking something that I also liked,” he says. “Dishes that people would think were Anne-Sophie Pic dishes. But it was my version of that. After four years, I wanted to move on because I wanted to cook for myself entirely. I wanted to see if that could work or not.”

Consistency and quantity can be issues. “When I did the Crete menu, I found two guys who sell fruit and vegetables in Athens, and they bring all of the vegetables from Crete,” Piscazzi says. This can create challenges as well, especially if an ingredient isn’t available. “That can be very unstable for a restaurant,” the chef notes. “You have to be able to be innovative.”

Piscazzi left La Dame de Pic shortly after helping the restaurant earn its second Michelin star. He didn’t feel any pressure when it came to moving on. “I’m not a person who overthinks a lot,” he says. “I just jump. And I like to change things often. I’ve always liked to change countries and find new challenges and work with new people.” He adds, “Except for my wife. My wife stays with me.” 

Once he made his way to Greece, however, there was some pressure on Piscazzi to elevate Pelagos to Michelin-star standards. He was successful in the end; in November 2021, mere months after opening, Pelagos earned its first star. It was a slightly lackluster moment for Piscazzi, who learned about the accolade on Twitter. At the time, Athens was the only part of Greece featured in the Michelin Guide (it expanded to include Santorini and Thessaloniki in 2026), and there was no ceremony. 

“We were the first Michelin star in the south of Athens,” Piscazzi says. “We had no event, no jackets. It was a bit different than what I expected.”

Piscazzi has hopes of a second star in the future. He has fully settled in Greece and even opened a second restaurant, Pino, with his wife, Charlotte Luykx, last year. The more casual spot, named for the chef’s childhood nickname, serves Piscazzi’s favorite Roman dishes, including pizza and pasta. Piscazzi says the food scene in Athens is expanding, although fine dining can feel like a stretch for locals. 

“It’s still limited in terms of Michelin stars,” he says of the city’s dining landscape. “I don’t believe people in this country are ready for this type of [fine dining] food, but you have very nice concepts based on the Greek style of sharing and comfort. Good places where people are cooking traditional dishes. It’s not like in London, where you have lots of places in fancy hotels.”

That’s part of what makes Pelagos feel so unusual. Here, Piscazzi has elevated a hotel restaurant into something far more special, but something unique to the place. At Pelagos, guests can join the chef on his continuous journey of discovery. 

In February 2024, Adejoké Bakare became the first Black female chef in the U.K.—and only the second in the world—to receive a Michelin star. She remembers the moment clearly, mostly because she wasn’t expecting the accolade. Bakare, known as Joké, had debuted her first restaurant, Chishuru, in Brixton in 2020. It started as an under-the-radar pop-up and gained momentum, eventually relocating to a larger, more centrally located space in Fitzrovia in the fall of 2023. 

She and her team had been invited to the Michelin Awards, but she assumed it was just a courtesy. “Honestly, can you believe how naïve I was?” she says, speaking to Observer in June. “I got there, and I was like, ‘Oh, this is nice.’ The ceremony was done in such a way where they didn’t call me until they had called everybody on the stage to get their picture taken. They went, ‘Oh, before we do that, one last thing.’ It wasn’t until my name was called before I knew we were even in the running for anything.”

Bakare shouldn’t have been surprised. Since its opening, Chishuru has been widely praised for its unique approach to West African cuisine, which showcases both Bakare’s affection for ingredients and recipes from the region and her ability to translate them for a new audience. Chishuru’s tasting menu—reasonably priced at £105 for dinner and £55 for lunch—takes diners on a journey of traditional dishes like moi moi, mbongo tchobi and pepper soup, each presented with refined elegance. Much of it draws on Bakare’s own upbringing in Nigeria, where she lived until she was 28. 

Despite an early love of food, Bakare wasn’t encouraged to pursue a career in hospitality. “It wasn’t a done thing,” she recalls. “Anything within the service industry was looked at as not what you should do if you come from a certain background. My mom wanted me to go and get a pharmaceutical degree, so that’s where I started.”

Bakare got a biomedical degree in Nigeria and intended to get a second degree in pharmaceuticals. But she had no interest in the subject. Once she moved to London, where several members of her family were already living, Bakare realized she had the freedom to choose something else. “I could say no, and I could do my own thing,” she says. “And so that’s what I did: I said no. I wanted to try to find what I wanted to do. I wanted to discover that part of me that was dying to feed people.”

She started throwing dinner parties while working for a property management company. “I decided I’d get people to come in and bring friends and we’d have evenings where we’d just sit together and people could try another approach to Nigerian food,” she says. “And it was a hit.”

In 2019, Bakare entered a cooking competition on a whim, participating in the amateur category. The prize was a three-month pop-up, rent-free, in a small Brixton restaurant space. “A friend of mine saw the ad and passed it on, and I thought, ‘This might be interesting,’” Bakare remembers. “Very reluctantly, I put in my application. It was due at midnight, and I think I got it in around 11:58 p.m. I was really surprised when I got the call,” she laughs. “And the rest is history.” 

Bakare won, but wasn’t able to claim her prize until after the coronavirus pandemic hit. Her pop-up opened in September 2020 with a skeletal crew of three. She was the only person in the kitchen cooking. She quickly realized that her dishes were best experienced with a set menu, because many diners needed guidance when it came to enjoying a less familiar cuisine.

“I realized the people who were coming did not have any clue about Nigerian food and they didn’t know how to eat it,” she says. “After a few months, I created a set menu that worked almost like holding people’s hands through the meal. One of our early customers was the actor Will Poulter—he came a couple of times. The first time he came, he tried two things and got another one, then another one. He finally said, ‘Can I have everything?’ By the time he came back, we had changed the menu, and he was really chuffed.”

Chishuru was so successful that it stayed open longer than its intended pop-up schedule. The menu evolved as Bakare further developed the dishes, although she’s never defined the restaurant as Nigerian. Her cooking draws on her upbringing in Nigeria, but also on her time living in Ghana and her knowledge of West African culinary traditions. 

“Our food transcends the lines on the map,” she says. “There are some dishes you’d find in Benin that you’d also find in Nigeria—it’s just cooked slightly differently, or there’s an addition of something or a removal of another thing. So it’s hard for me to say if I’m making a Nigerian egusi, because even in Nigeria, there are different ways to make egusi,” she explains of the popular style of soup.

Bakare uses British produce, meat and fish, but acquiring the necessary African ingredients tends to be very challenging. She goes to specialist grocers all around London, from Brixton to Dalston to Peckham to Dagenham, which requires a lot of coordination. Sometimes she receives ingredients that aren’t the best quality. “Some of the herbs are an issue because we want them really fresh,” she notes. “And sometimes I want fruit from Nigeria for a one-off dessert, and it’s difficult because it’s so inconsistent.”

Cassava, for instance, appears on the menu in various forms, including raw, dehydrated and fermented. “We can get cassava now from our veg suppliers because we’ve asked for it, but when it comes to the fermented cassava, we can’t get it from them,” Bakare says. “We have to get from our other dealers. And how long they’ve had it for will affect the taste.”

Ultimately, though, this just pushes Bakare and her team to be more creative. Sometimes she discovers a British replacement for an African ingredient, like swapping celeriac for taro. The chef’s flavors are immediately familiar to diners with an African background, even if the presentation is unconventional. Her moi moi, a standout dish on Chishuru’s menu, is an interpretation of the hearty Nigerian steamed bean pudding, served with cured Irish brown trout, confit egg yolk and shitto. In the past, she’s presented it with duck liver. 

“Nigerians are very direct, like ‘We will judge and let you know at the end of the meal,’” Bakare says. “There was this woman who was very emotional. She went, ‘I didn’t believe our food could look this good, but still taste like what I ate growing up.’ For me, that encapsulated everything we’ve been trying to do.”

The current Chishuru space is larger than the original in Brixton. The restaurant moved to expand its seating, but also to take advantage of the lunch crowd in central London. It spreads the tables over two floors, exuding an inviting, warm vibe augmented by the open kitchen and friendly servers. The tasting menu requires each guest to select their main course, a choice I found almost impossible to make. The server made it for me, delivering both mbongo tchobi and efo riro to the table. The mbongo tchobi, which originates from Cameroon, is an especially compelling dish, as its rich sauce gets its black color from burnt tree bark. 

“That’s become a signature for us,” Bakare says. “How many restaurants do you go to and they say, ‘the soup is black?’ It epitomizes everything that we do, which is dishes that are complex but look simple. It is packed full of ingredients and sauces and spices and herbs, but when you taste it, everything comes together, and it’s very mellow. I think that’s us, in a way.”

When Chishuru won its Michelin star, Bakare not only became the first Black female chef in the U.K. to earn the award, but also the first Black female chef in the world with her own Michelin-starred restaurant. She understands the significance, but says that in Nigeria you’re encouraged to feel humble rather than proud. “I wouldn’t say I’m good at it,” she explains of cooking. “I would say I love it and that shows in what I do.”

Still, there’s been a real impact. African cuisine has become trendier across London in recent years, and Bakare feels it’s important that it can be celebrated regionally rather than as a singular thing. “It’s more nuanced than jollof rice now,” Bakare says. “I get a lot of messages from young female chefs, but also just chefs from Nigeria reaching out and going, ‘I’m so proud of what you’ve done and because of this I’m going to do this.’ I see a lot of young people doing pop-ups and being really creative in how the food is presented and how the food is talked about.”

She adds, “London is the best place to try anything new. London had always been open, but now there’s much more curiosity from guests who come here and then who go, ‘Okay, we’ve tried this version, we want to try a mom and pop shop version.’”

Bakare knows exactly where to find that. She says most of the authentic West African food comes from takeaways. She suggests Mama Calabar Nigerian Restaurant in Hendon and Tasty African Food, which has numerous locations across London. For her, dining at Chishuru is an opportunity for a guest to expand their interest in something new. “People then feel like, ‘I’ve crossed this hurdle and I can push myself to try something else,’” she notes. “I think that’s how human nature is.” 

Going forward, Bakare hopes to continue telling the story of West African food in new ways. She visits Nigeria regularly and can see how much the culinary scene there has changed since she left, with more global flavors and ingredients infiltrating the cooking. It’s not the food she grew up eating. 

“My cooking is like a time capsule,” Bakare says. “I’m doing things in the old way. And that’s the immigrants’ way: we are locked in our experiences when we were growing up. But the people we left behind are trying new things, like adding soy sauce in stews and rice. So we’re trying to get as many stories from older people as we can to bring it together and try to codify what West African food is really about.”

Even though Bakare’s mom hoped she would become a pharmacist, she now celebrates Bakare as a chef. In fact, she takes credit for the career shift. “The thing with African parents is it’s always been intended,” Bakare says. “If you hadn’t been pushed you wouldn’t have known what you wanted. She’s like, ‘You’re welcome.’”

But, of course, it doesn’t really matter who is to thank for Bakare’s impact on the London dining scene as long as she is here and still cooking.

There’s no pretense when you enter The Idle Rocks, a seafront hotel in the charming Cornish village of St. Mawes. Instead, there’s a quick welcome from the staff, a promise to hold your bags and an immediate invitation to the terrace overlooking the harbor—a blue expanse filled with boats, swimmers and even dogs. 

After a five-hour drive from London, first along England’s dull highways and then through narrow, winding lanes leading to St. Mawes, it’s a relief to arrive, but also a surprise. The Idle Rocks is one of Cornwall’s most iconic hotels, with a history that stretches over a century. The town has been called the “St. Tropez of Cornwall,” but the vibe is far more casual and modern than I’d anticipated. Guests are relaxing on the terrace, cocktails and wine already in hand in the mid-afternoon, and the charming employee at the front desk—who, in a rather unexpected twist, hails from Ohio—doesn’t want anything from me except to take my bags. There’s nothing to fill out—just the offer of a welcome drink. 

Having never been to St. Mawes before, I decline the beverage, eager to walk along the seafront, which is busy with visitors and locals. The small, picturesque village is nestled along the harbor, where ferry boats are shuttling people back and forth to the larger town of Falmouth. Ice cream shops and gift stores abound, and kids in swimsuits carry buckets and floaties. Stands sell local crab and oysters. In reality, it’s nothing like St. Tropez, save for the sun and the waterside location. Unlike many of Cornwall’s popular tourist towns, including St. Ives and Padstow, St. Mawes has a substantial all-year population, and it shows in the friendly, amiable atmosphere. 

The Idle Rocks has a prime location in St. Mawes, almost presiding over the village. It’s the most obvious building, and can be glimpsed from the entire seafront. For many years, it was in decline, the result of being sold multiple times and neglected by past owners. But in 2010, British couple David and Karen Richards purchased the property, and their dedication and care for the hotel have helped to transform St. Mawes into a vibrant, all-seasons destination.

Just because a hotel was once renowned doesn’t mean it’s worth visiting, but The Idle Rocks doesn’t disappoint. Entering my room, which has my first name scrawled on the door in chalk, the first thing I notice is the sea, glimmering through the window. But soon the thoughtful details inside become clear: a well-loved teddy bear on the window seat; a deep bathtub with its own water view and a heaping jar of bath salts; a fridge filled with local sparkling apple juice; blue-and-cream curtains with a coral pattern.

The details elsewhere are just as deliberate. Vintage swimsuits are framed in a downstairs hallway. The dining room tables are arranged on tiered levels so everyone can see the harbor properly. All the artwork comes from Cornwall. 

There’s a lot to do in St. Mawes, especially on the water, from kayaking to swimming to sailing, and the village has a few notable attractions, including St. Mawes Castle, an English Heritage site. But it also offers an opportunity to unwind completely, a sensibility that The Idle Rocks shares. From the moment I arrive, it becomes clear that this is a hotel where you can get away with doing almost nothing. And, in fact, that is encouraged.

The Idle Rocks has overlooked St. Mawes’ scenic harbor for over a century. It has been a fixture of the community for generations and a beloved vacation spot for Brits who have traveled to Cornwall in search of sunshine and relaxation. When I mentioned I was going to visit, a friend recalled having tea there with her parents as a child. But after several successful decades following its 1913 opening, the hotel began to decline after it was sold in 1988 to Richardson Hotels. Although there was a renovation, The Idle Rocks simply lost its luster.

When David and Karen Richards decided to buy the then-run-down hotel more than 15 years ago, neither had a background in hospitality. Karen was a dancer, and David has a long history in motorsports, including as the chairman of Prodrive and as the former chairman of Aston Martin. But they had spent enough time in St. Mawes to recognize The Idle Rocks as an opportunity when it became available to purchase in 2010. 

“We’ve always had a house here, and we used to wander down into the village every evening,” David says, speaking to Observer from the hotel’s terrace on a sunny day in July. “We never set foot in the place, but we’d always liked the location. My father used to stay here. I heard from a friend that it was going to come up for sale.”

“It was so sad and unloved,” Karen adds. “It was nowhere I wanted to go in. I said once too often, ‘Somebody needs to do something about it.’ So David said, ‘Do you want a project? We’ll buy it.’”

When the couple agreed to the purchase, they had never actually set foot inside the hotel. It was a complete leap of faith, but not exactly out of character for the duo. In fact, the Richardses admit they have a history of buying properties without seeing them. Their current home in the Cotswolds, where they’ve lived for 42 years, was purchased after viewing only its exterior. Their home in St. Mawes was custom-built, so they didn’t ever look inside the existing house on the seafront land (although they did stop by to check out the view from the land). 

“If the location is good and it hasn’t got any obvious defects, we tend to go for it,” Karen says. “Most things you can rectify. We knew the hotel had a wonderful terrace and a good layout. It’s an iconic hotel. It’s been there for a long time, and I felt we could only improve it. It just needed some love.” 

Karen knew it would take a lot of work to restore the hotel to its former glory, which was part of the appeal. “When I first went in, it was full of faded velvet curtains, swirly carpets, terrible bathrooms and bedrooms,” she says. “It had 27 or 28 rooms, and we took it down to 20 to get bigger bathrooms and more space. It’s the perfect backdrop for any hotel, so I wanted it all to feel fresh.”

It took nearly a year to renovate, from the fall of 2012 until the summer of 2013. Karen wanted to avoid conventional seaside design tropes, like anchors and stripes, and to bring in bright, colorful fabrics and art. Each bedroom (rates start at £455 per night during the high season) is slightly different, a nod to Karen’s experience designing homes rather than hotels. She scoured the Design Centre Chelsea Harbour in London for the best fabrics. 

“It was like being in a sweet shop,” she says. “I chose a bold, statement fabric for each room and built on that, layering contrasting fabrics. I love mixing old and new. I love old painted furniture. I didn’t want everything to be squeaky new. It had to feel more lived in. I just chose things that I loved and would have in my home. And there were times when I thought, ‘Oh, I really want to keep that for myself.’”

The long terrace became the focal point of the hotel, which joined Relais & Châteaux in 2016. The sitting room, filled with plush sofas and vibrant artwork, and the dining room extend alongside it, with massive windows offering views of the water. Guests can access the beach via stairs alongside the hotel, and the front desk has stand-up paddleboards ready for use. Despite the property’s elevated design, there’s no pressure to put on shoes when you come back inside. 

“It’s meant to be your home away from home,” Karen says. “If you want to walk through the place without any shoes, that’s fine. I never have shoes on. When you come in, take your tie off, take your shoes off, sit outside and flop in a chair. And whatever you want, we’ll try and get it for you.”

That sensibility comes from years of travel. Because of David’s work in car racing, the couple is often in hotels around the world, which has helped them understand what they appreciate and dislike in a hotel stay. 

“One of my pet hates was always turning up at hotels, and they’d say, ‘Right, would you mind filling in this form and telling us your address and where you come from and give us your credit card?’” David says. “But they already have all my details from weeks ago. If someone came to your home, you wouldn’t ask them to do that. So we say, ‘Come straight in, sit down on the terrace now with a glass of champagne or a cup of tea.’”

“We want to make it as easy as possible,” Karen adds. “You’re coming to your home by the sea. It’s a long journey for lots of people, but the journey is worth making once you get here.” 

The hotel reopened in July of 2013. The Richardses invited the town for drinks on the terrace to celebrate its new chapter, and room reservations began to pour in soon after. They had a busy summer and Christmas period. Then, in early January 2014, a massive storm hit the coast of England, bringing in hurricane-force winds and huge swells. 

“It just decimated the whole place,” Karen says. “It was so upsetting. The entire ground floor was destroyed. We had to do it all again. Luckily, the fabrics I’d ordered were still current, so they had them in stock. The guy who made the furniture copied it and did it all again. There was a two-month lead time for the windows and the doors in the restaurant. It was a traumatic time.” 

During the flooding, Karen managed to save a lot of the artwork and antiques from the walls. She prefers to source art from local artists to support the community. The hotel features several works by contemporary painter David Pearce, including a piece Karen commissioned to hang over the reception desk that depicts the hotel and the surrounding harbor. He’s since drawn images for the backs of the restaurant menus—a memorable detail when dining. 

“We have great Cornish artists who do really good work,” Karen says. “When we bought the hotel, the whole idea was to make it a destination that improved the village. It’s not just for visitors, but for the locals as well. Keeping that link to the village and the area is really important. This is somewhere with a year-round community. Everyone here always pulls together.” 

“The people here knew us quite well before we opened,” David adds. “We’ve been quite actively involved in the sailing club and the local community. Wherever we go, we want to be able to contribute.”

Running a hotel has its challenges, as the Richardses have discovered. Originally, they hoped to hire all local staff. But that has proved difficult in an area known for seasonal tourism. The employees come from all over and live in houses that David purchased in town to ensure they can accommodate the all-year staff. He says running a Formula 1 team is easier than The Idle Rocks. 

“The good thing about a motor racing team is you start on the start grid, and you get to the finish,” he says. “You’re either first, second, third or not placing. And with a hotel, 300 people walk through the front door on a Sunday, and they’ve all got a different view of what is good and what isn’t good. And you have to try to cater for that.”

There is, however, one correlation between the two. “It’s all how you create a team, build a team with a single goal, make sure everyone’s engaged, make sure everyone feels part of it,” he says. “That’s the same in any business.” 

The challenges didn’t stop David and Karen from buying a second hotel down the road in St. Mawes in 2014. The St. Mawes Hotel reopened in 2015, featuring seven bedrooms, a restaurant and a cinema room. Guests can dine across both properties, which are only a short walk apart.

Karen, for one, has no idea how she ended up as a hotelier. 

“My father was in the catering industry, and he was a fantastic host,” Karen says. “He was fantastic at entertaining, and I think it’s one of those things that rubbed off on me. Before I owned a hotel, I used to look at hotels and think, ‘This can’t be difficult. We’ve stayed in so many wonderful hotels. We know what’s good. We know what’s bad.’ It is hard. But it’s also fun.”

She’s adamant that two hotels are plenty, especially after spending eight years building the Richardses’ present home in St. Mawes. “I have not got another hotel in me, or another house,” Karen says. “I want to enjoy what we’ve created and to make it better. I’m trying to reinvent the rooms, little by little. I’d like to put more greenery in the restaurant. I can always find something I want to improve.” 

Although Cornwall is often thought of as a summer destination (particularly by those from the U.K.), The Idle Rocks and its restaurant, led by chef Guy Owen, remain open year-round. The hotel closes for three weeks each January for small refurbishments, but David says guests want to be there as much in the winter as in the warmer months. It’s popular at Christmas. Some guests will buy out the property for special occasions, like milestone birthdays or weddings. Most people stay for more than one night, making The Idle Rocks a home base while exploring the nearby coast or taking the ferry over to Falmouth. 

“A lot of people come back,” David says. “I bump into people in London, and they say, ‘That’s my favorite place to go for a few days.’ We try to make sure it’s not pretentious, and it’s very chill. The way of life down here really calms you down. You come here, sit on the terrace, the sun is shining—it’s a slower way of life.” Of all the amenities offered while staying at The Idle Rocks, it’s that sense of peace that is the most memorable—a welcome chance to do as much or as little as you want. 

A meal is always better eaten by the sea. On the Channel Island of Guernsey, that sentiment is taken to the extreme. The small, self-governing island, located between England and France, is home to Vraic, a one-Michelin-starred restaurant helmed by Welsh chef Nathan Davies. The restaurant is found along Guernsey’s sandy coast at Chouet Bay, where seaweed rolls in with the tides and cows stand on the overlooking green hills—the sort of picturesque sensibility so perfect it almost feels manufactured. 

But Vraic is as authentic as it comes. And despite being located across the English Channel, the restaurant is only a short flight from London. So short, in fact, that it’s possible to fly to the small island just for lunch—something I discovered on a recent Friday in May when I caught an early flight from Gatwick to Guernsey Airport. The taxi driver described the restaurant as “as far from the airport as you can be,” which ended up being only a 20-minute drive, a distance worth venturing for the island’s most notable dining establishment. 

Vraic opened last July after an extensive renovation of the existing building. It was formerly a tea room and then a seaside bistro, but it had been empty for 18 months before Davies agreed to take it on alongside his wife, Hollie Davies, Vraic’s operations manager. When it received its Michelin star in February, Vraic became the first restaurant on the island to hold that distinction since Christophe at Fermain Valley Hotel closed in 2009. It took a huge leap of faith for Davies and his family to relocate from Wales to Guernsey, a place where the culinary scene isn’t particularly renowned. 

“At the time, there was no Michelin Guide here,” Davies tells Observer. “There was nobody else doing it. There wasn’t really a model that you could look at for reference. We just thought, ‘Well, if we did it, what would it look like? How do we do it the way we want to?’ And it could have gone really badly.”

Davies previously helmed the Michelin-starred SY23 in Aberystwyth, Wales, which closed in December 2023. He wanted to keep the team from that restaurant intact if he went elsewhere. So after a few exploratory trips to Guernsey, he convinced several former staff members, including head chef Kuba Biskup and sous chef Max Davies, to take the leap as well. 

“Without the team, this restaurant doesn’t exist,” Davies says. “I might write the menus, but without all the other incredible people who were willing to come and take a chance with us, it couldn’t have happened. We brought in a culture straight away. We didn’t have to waste time talking about standards. The restaurant gained three or four years of operational experience overnight by bringing the right people in.”

Davies and his wife, who have two young children, had previously spent time on the neighboring Channel Island of Jersey. But he didn’t realize just how different the two islands would be. Guernsey, as I discovered on my recent trip, is compact, with a population of only around 65,000, and has an eye on the past. On the day I visited, the island was preparing to celebrate its annual Liberty Day. Vestiges of the German occupation during World War II, like bunkers and batteries, cover the island, and the French influence—Guernsey is only 30 miles from the French coast—is apparent in the architecture and street names. Its rolling hills are lush and green thanks to the moderate climate. There are cows everywhere, a visual reminder of the famous Guernsey dairy. 

“It’s not behind the times; it’s just stayed how it is,” Davies says. “People from Guernsey are definitely from Guernsey. They’re a bit like the Welsh—very proud. The island is a very beautiful place to live, but no one takes it for granted. Sometimes when you go to a beautiful place, everybody just thinks it’s normal. Here, they appreciate it. Jersey has more of a culinary tradition, but this felt like a challenge, which was part of the appeal.” 

When the team arrived on Guernsey, they had no local contacts. Davies and his family moved in April 2025, a few months ahead of opening, and he quickly began learning about what the island has to offer. The chefs did a deep dive into seaweed, local produce and Guernsey dairy. 

“The ingredients here have really surpassed expectations on what we were expecting to find,” Davies says. “We knew there was a lot to give in terms of different varieties of seaweed. The waters here are very special. The tidal range is huge. But we were constantly trying to gather information on what we could do with it.”

Currently, Guernsey’s seaweed is showcased at Vraic in a dish consisting of several types of foraged seaweed. A selection of seaweed, each with a different texture, is served in a rich, umami seaweed broth—one of the menu’s most memorable inclusions. Each day, there are eight to 10 different varieties in the dish, all of which are foraged daily. The dish, consumed in only a few bites, represents hours of work and a vast amount of acquired knowledge. 

“As a guest, you’re coming in for something you wouldn’t do yourself,” Davies says. “And it should feel like we did ridiculous work for the sake of work. We want you to sit there and enjoy it without us shouting too much about it. But, yeah, the work that goes into that dish is extreme. It’s the equivalent to us having the farm. Instead, we’re blessed with a beach.”

Even more surprising than the array of seaweed is what is grown on Guernsey’s land. “The island doesn’t freeze, and there are old glass houses everywhere, so you find limes, lemons, grapefruits, oranges, yuzus, finger limes, melons, chilis, tomatoes,” Davies says. “It was eye-opening. The difference in quality and taste, with it having not been stored or traveled, is amazing. It’s literally picked in the morning, and it comes to us in the afternoon, and it’s good to go.” 

At SY23, the general concept was to use only local ingredients—the restaurant’s name referred to Aberystwyth’s postcode. At Vraic, Davies has a similar philosophy, although it’s less rigid. Coffee, chocolate, soy and spices are necessarily imported, but the key ingredient in every dish comes from the island. That focus has led to dishes that are more thoughtfully developed, with flavors and textures unique to Guernsey. 

“We knew the dairy would be really good, because it’s world-renowned, but we didn’t realize how good,” Davies says. “When we started cooking, it pushed us to evolve. We were making ice creams with it, and we were having to change our ice cream recipes because there was so much creamy fat. It was so much richer than we were used to.” 

Vraic’s 10-course tasting menu costs £155 for lunch and dinner, with the option to add a cheese course. Everything is served in unison for the entire dining room, and some of the primary ingredients are served twice in different ways—a clever way of emphasizing the restaurant’s sustainability efforts. When I dined, the lobster arrived first in a bowl accompanied by black garlic and soy, and then as a prawn toast-style addition. The turbot, which Davies prefers to cook whole over an open flame, was presented as a fillet adorned with seaweed and plankton broth. Davies then crisped the skin into a cracker and offered it alongside caviar, sour cream and smoked eel. 

“The fact that the ingredients are so much harder to get makes you question how much you should be using,” Davies says. “Inevitably, we’re never going to be a zero-waste restaurant. What we are is very waste-conscious. When we pick our seaweeds every morning, we’re always conscious that we only pick what we need. Serving the lobster in a few different forms is interesting for a guest. You get different experiences of the same product, but it also means we don’t waste anything.”

The menu changes dynamically with the seasons, often evolving based on what suppliers have available. Strawberries, for instance, recently came into season. “We know we’re not locked into a particular dish, but we are locked into strawberries until they go out of season,” Davies notes. “Lobster is available all year, but we might completely change the dish. Or change the garnish or the presentation.”

Although Vraic’s primary focus is showcasing Guernsey, Davies hasn’t forgotten his Welsh roots. He was born in Wolverhampton, England, but grew up in the village of Llangrannog. He’s spent the majority of his cooking career in Wales. He went to culinary school there and met Hollie while working at a country house hotel in Powys. He later worked for Stephen Terry at The Hardwick in Abergavenny, but his most significant experience was at Gareth Ward’s acclaimed restaurant Ynyshir, where he was head chef for four years. 

“It was great,” he recalls. “I thoroughly enjoyed my time there. It was fucking hard. It was like being in the SAS of kitchens at the time. But I enjoyed it. After that, though, I wanted to do my thing and really focus on local ingredients. It’s something I’ve always been passionate about. At Ynyshir, I learned how to cook outside the box and maintain exacting standards, but when I left, I was ready to do my own thing.”

Davies opened SY23 in December 2019, focusing on using 85 percent local ingredients. In the early years, the chef refused to serve vanilla or chocolate or spices because they had to be imported (he still doesn’t use vanilla). It was there that he connected with his current grain supplier, one of the only items he has flown into Guernsey. Vraic’s bread is made using a historic Welsh grain called hen gymro, which the team mills and then bakes. It’s served with cultured miso butter and beef drippings. 

“That’s where Wales meets Guernsey,” Davies says. “It’s where the old makes the new. We have these heritage Welsh grains we’ve been using for the last decade. And then the new side of it is the Guernsey dairy that goes into that butter we make ourselves. The beef dripping is from the Guernsey cows. One half is as Welsh as it gets, and the other half is as Guernsey as it gets.”

For Davies, receiving a Michelin star at Vraic was “more relief than anything else.” Moving his wife and kids to Guernsey and convincing three other staff members to join them was a risk. Being recognized by Michelin only seven months after opening felt vindicating. 

“Thank God we got that, because otherwise we would have looked stupid,” Davies says. “It felt like we’d made the right decision. We all stepped away from our families to live on a rock in the middle of the Atlantic, and if it didn’t work, that would have been really hard. There was a huge level of pressure. We didn’t really have any days off for the first few months. None of us left a stone unturned.”

This year marked the Michelin Guide’s first time recognizing Guernsey (Michelin previously recognized the location with designated stars, but didn’t have a complete guide on the island). Vraic currently holds the only star, and Alba, located in St Peter Port, has the only Bib Gourmand. Although the ingredients and desire are plentiful, the culinary scene is still developing. About 60 percent of Vraic’s customers are local, while the rest are visitors, either on a longer vacation or as a day trip just to enjoy a meal. 

Next, Davies wants to push for two stars.

“I don’t feel embarrassed to say it,” he says. “And I don’t think that it’s just around the corner, but we’ve got to have goals that feel a little bit unrealistic. Like moving to Guernsey and winning the Michelin star. That was a crazy thing to do. The next goal for us should be something that’s fucking crazy. And in two or three years, if we still don’t have two stars, we haven’t lost because we’ve continued to build and grow. It’s not the only goal, but it’s the next one that you can actually put on the wall.” He adds, “We might never get there, but you’ve got to put a carrot on the stick, right?”

If Vraic’s impressive approach is anything to go by, that carrot may be closer than he thinks.

We’re partway through the 28-course tasting menu at Ynyshir, a two-Michelin-starred restaurant near the coast of North Wales, and the background music has started to amp up in speed and volume. Each course arrives at a staccato pace in tempo with the songs, which are being played on vinyl by a live DJ in the open kitchen. Everything is the best possible version of itself: a fatty bite of raw Fuentes blue tuna from Spain and A5 Wagyu from Japan, perfectly crispy Silverhill Farm duck breast in hoisin sauce, tiramisu soaked in Ethiopian coffee. It feels like a very exclusive party, especially when the disco ball eventually illuminates during one of the dessert courses. 

“It should be fun,” Gareth Ward, who relaunched Ynyshir in its current form in 2016, tells Observer the next morning. “There’s no point in going out for dinner and it being really serious. I’m not that kind of guy. I want this to be a great experience where we all have fun, including the team. We take what we do very seriously, but we don’t take ourselves seriously. There’s no ego, no pretentiousness. Just a group of people who are absolutely obsessed with doing what we do, and we want to share that.”

Going to Ynyshir exemplifies dining as an experience, rather than just a meal. To get there, we drove five hours from London through winding country lanes. There are approximately three sheep for each person in Wales, and most of them seem to be grazing along these exact roads. The restaurant can be found in a verdant valley not far from the town of Machynlleth, down an even narrower country lane. An enormous T. rex statue greets guests on arrival, a gift to Ward from his pal Ed Sheeran. Most diners stay on the picturesque grounds in one of the 10 bedrooms, as stylish as the rest of the property. 

Ward, 45, and his wife, Amelia Eiriksson, designed the spaces together, transforming the 15th-century building, once a country house hotel, into something singular and contemporary. There are black walls throughout the common areas, which Ward notes have “set off a trend of dark restaurants.” Fur coats hang on the walls as décor. There’s a fire pit outside branded with Ynyshir’s name. The chairs in the lounge, where drinks are served before the meal, look like something out of Game of Thrones. It’s all a reflection of Ward’s own predilections. 

“It’s not for me—to sit in restaurants with tablecloths and no music and really stuffy service,” he says. “And I love cooking for people, but I’m not doing it for them. I’m doing it for me. I’ve sacrificed 27 years of my life to cooking. And I’ve done that because I’m obsessed with cooking. I’m obsessed with food. This is not a job. It’s a lifestyle. If I’m loving it and if I’m in it 100 percent, there’s a massive chance that you’re going to love it too.” 

Becoming a chef wasn’t the inevitable path for Ward. He originally started cooking purely because he needed a job. As a kid growing up in Durham, England, he wanted to be in the fire brigade or the army, but neither materialized. He had no interest in food, but took a job in a local pub, the Seven Stars, to make money. Almost immediately, he fell in love with cooking. “You know when you do something, and you just feel at home?” he says. “This industry attracts a certain kind of human being. We’re like pirates or social rejects. We can’t survive in normal life.” 

After working in the pub for a few years, Ward moved on to the much higher-end Hambleton Hall, located a few hours south in Rutland. At the time, he was a picky eater. “One of the chefs made this hare Wellington, which is one of the classic dishes they did,” Ward remembers. “He cut the end off and offered it to me. I was like, ‘No thanks.’ And he was like, ‘You want to be a chef?’ And it was one of the most delicious things I’ve ever eaten. I can still taste it. It was that Ratatouille moment where something switched on in my brain. It became an absolute obsession.”

Ward stayed at Hambleton Hall for five years, working under chef Aaron Patterson. He moved on to Seaham Hall, then Hart’s and then Restaurant Sat Bains, where he became sous chef in 2011. When Ward began looking for his first head chef gig, his search brought him to Ynyshir Hall, a traditional Relais & Châteaux property in Wales. He’d never been to the area. “I remember driving here and being absolutely blown away,” he says. “It was very different then, with manicured lawns, but I couldn’t believe it.”

Although it was a very classic British hotel, the owner, Joan Reen, was interested in hiring a chef who would do something unique. “She wanted somebody to come in and put their stamp on it,” Ward notes. “She was really good at selecting people who had their own personality.” When Reen died a few years later, Ward had the opportunity to take over and transform Ynyshir into his own restaurant, with rooms. He has co-owned the restaurant along with a silent business partner since 2016. It was then that the menu began to expand in length. 

“I want to give people an ultimate experience of ingredients and to do that, everything has to be small,” Ward says. He compares it to the Japanese style of nigiri—a perfect bite of fish, rice and wasabi. “I thought, ‘We can do that with our menu without making nigiri,’” he says. “I can give you one or two mouthfuls of intense flavor with incredible ingredients over and over again. I started making dishes smaller, and the menu grew. One of the worst things is when you finish, you’re still hungry. I’d rather you leave and feel overly full than be fucking starving.” 

He adds of the menu, “It’s not just us chucking a load of food on plates. It’s all in sequence. Things match. Things go after the other. It’s choreographed.”

Importing ingredients from around the world requires a high level of precision. Sometimes, the team has to plan six months in advance to ensure everything is available when they want. The Silverhill Farm ducks come from Ireland, where they are raised listening to jazz music. Ward dry-ages them for a week in a custom salt aging chamber, and two are cooked each night for service. The tuna comes in once a week from Spain. The A5 Wagyu comes in from Japan in portions. About eight months ago, Ward discovered that the female cows have more tender meat, with a buttery flavor. He now only serves cuts from female cows. 

“I fell into it by accident because one of my suppliers sent me my beef for the month, and two pieces were completely different to the rest,” Ward explains. “He couldn’t figure out why. I said, ‘Well, it’s amazing. We need to find out what it is. So when I went to Japan, I went to visit the Wagyu farm, and I got to talking to the farmer. He went, ‘I think it’s female.’”

Sourcing that way is tough. “There are only two farms in Japan that actually kill 100 percent female beef,” Ward says. “The guy in Japan who selects my beef has to go to the abattoir and find female meat and buy it for me. So at the moment it’s a very difficult process.” 

Four years ago, Ward visited Japan for the first time. The trip immensely influenced his cooking. He now considers Japan to be the best place for ingredients in the world. He’s been there eight times since, and sources many products from around the country, including mirin, soy sauce and melons. 

“The care, love, passion and dedication they show for things is unrivaled,” he says. “Every process is done with such love. When you’re in Japan and you’re watching one person on their hands and knees with no shoes and socks on a mat, hand-selecting fruit and smelling it and feeling it and weighing it and checking for any blemishes, you really see the love.”

Although Japanese ingredients and cooking techniques are apparent on Ynyshir’s menu, particularly in the first half of the dining experience, Ward is clear that he is not cooking Japanese food. “I’ve never worked in a Japanese kitchen,” he says. “I respect it hugely, and I love it. It’s my favorite food in the world. All I’m doing is just taking my experiences of being in that country and eating that food. I’m bringing the ingredients back, and I’m doing it my own way.”

The menu I ate in early June opened with a series of raw fish dishes, including Japanese madai, Japanese hamachi and bluefin tuna. Each was seasoned with a particular flavor, including wasabi oil and Nuvo olive oil made from first harvest oils. As cooked dishes began to appear, the flavor broadened: barbecued lobster with punchy Thai nam jim seasoning, an elevated take on Singapore chili crab, French squab in Cantonese char siu style. There are hints of Wales, including birch syrup made on-site and dairy from down the road, but Ward wants to showcase the best of the entire world. 

“I used to use Welsh Wagyu, which doesn’t really exist,” Ward says. “It started off really good, and then it declined. The more popular it got, the harder it got to keep its consistency. I decided to stop using it. I thought, ‘If I’m going to use Wagyu, why not use Japanese?’ Because it’s the best beef and the consistency is unbelievable.”

He adds, “I can go and buy limes from the grocery store. But why would I when I can buy the most incredible limes from the other side of the world? The best limes I ever tasted in my life come from Thailand, and they’re just fucking delicious. It is a dream lime. If you say, ‘What does the lime taste like?’ Well, it tastes like that.”

Ward is in the kitchen at Ynyshir for every service, four nights a week. The restaurant’s DJ, Jacob Kelly, is also there for every service—a full-time member of staff just like the servers and chefs. Ward believes that everything in the restaurant should have a soul and meaning, from the crockery and silverware (made by an on-site blacksmith) to the music. It was not long after opening Ynyshir that he had the idea to acquire vinyl DJ decks and hire someone to curate a nightly playlist of mostly house music. Kelly is the second DJ to have worked at Ynyshir; it’s all part of the vibe Ward wants to cultivate for himself and his staff. 

“He starts off really atmospheric, around 5 p.m. before the guests are even in the dining room,” Ward says. “And then it just builds and builds and builds. The music is for us; it’s not for you. It keeps us going. We can lock into the music, and it becomes the driving force in the kitchen. I always say, ‘If you don’t like the music, fine. It’s not for you.’”

It’s the same with the food. Ward would never serve anything he wouldn’t eat. In fact, he won’t serve anything he doesn’t believe in completely. “I want to eat everything that comes off my pass,” he says. “Why do you think I’m so big?” He pauses, gesturing toward me. “You love your own art, your own music, your fashion. You prefer your coffee a certain way. We all love different things, so I can’t please everybody, right? All I can do is please myself. That’s what feels honest.”

As Ynyshir approaches its 10th anniversary, Ward has a lot of ideas for how it can grow. There could be a more casual pub added to the grounds, as well as more artisans like his blacksmith. In 2022, Ynyshir became the first restaurant in Wales to earn two Michelin stars. Three stars, he hopes, are on the horizon. All of Ward’s Michelin plaques are nailed to a tree outside, but he has other plans for the three-star plaque. “When I get three stars, I’m going to put it in the T. rex’s mouth,” he confirms. 

He adds, “I thought we had three stars this year, but I think a few things might have messed us up. This restaurant is a three-star restaurant. I’m not being arrogant. It’s as simple as that. But we have to keep doing what we do. We’re better this year than we were last year. We haven’t gone backward. We’ve only gone forward.”

In 2007, Enrico Buonocore opened Langosteria on Milan’s Via Savona. It was an intimate, seafood-led restaurant with only 40 seats, focused on quality of ingredients rather than ostentatiousness. It was also a one-off—Buonocore never imagined the scale of the hospitality empire he has since built across Europe. And at the time, Buonocore was acting as host, server and sommelier.

“I remember the first guest I served,” he tells Observer. “I did the welcome, I served the food, I presented the bill. We had a very small team, only 13 people, so I did everything. When I started, I had the same rules I have now: no compromise in terms of quality and no compromise in terms of people. For me, people and quality are the keys of my success.”

Over the past two decades, Langosteria has grown immensely. Via Savona, located in the hip Tortona district, has expanded to encompass the neighboring spaces, creating a labyrinthine expanse of dining rooms, counter seating and a vast wine cellar. Buonocore has since opened three more Langosteria restaurants in Milan, including Langosteria Bistrot, down the street from Via Savona. Last fall, Langosteria Montenapoleone arrived in Palazzo Fendi alongside Pepe Barra Italiana and Ally’s Bar—a far more contemporary complex of eateries than those in Tortona. In recent years, Langosteria has even outgrown Milan. In the fall of 2021, Buonocore debuted an outpost in Paris’ Cheval Blanc hotel. There are three more seasonal locations in Paraggi, St. Moritz and Porto Cervo. 

Despite this dramatic evolution, which has been propelled by the fashion industry’s ongoing love for the brand, Buonocore is most enthusiastic about his most recent opening at the OWO, a multi-year project beset by challenges and delays. Discussions about joining Raffles started in 2022, and Buonocore signed the contract for the space, formerly used by Winston Churchill, the following year. 

“London is, for me, the most important city in Europe in terms of culture, energy and business,” Buonocore says. “The location of the restaurant is interesting because everyone told me to open in Mayfair. But Langosteria is a destination place, and the Raffles building is very British and has an incredible story. I didn’t think we needed to be like everyone else and be in Mayfair.” 

Buonocore was initially offered a different space in the OWO than the area where Langosteria London ultimately opened its doors on July 1. But he was adamant that the kitchen needed to be on the same floor as the dining room. “It is very important for me to have the direct service of the food by my chef on the same level of the guest,” he says. He prevailed, eventually taking over several rooms on the ground floor of the hotel opposite the Michelin-starred fine dining restaurant Mauro Colagreco. The restaurant has its own entrance off Whitehall, where doors open into a bar, two dining rooms seating a total of 110 diners, and a private dining room. 

It’s far more opulent than Via Savona. The historic ceilings, wood paneling and fireplaces have been kept intact, but Buonocore has brought a sense of liveliness into the rooms with the help of silk wall coverings emblazoned with colorful Langosteria characters and London icons. It’s sophisticated in terms of the service and menu, but even two weeks into opening, the restaurant is loud and boisterous—just as busy as the more modern location in Montenapoleone, Milan’s fashion district. But where Raffles at the OWO is austere, serious and oddly quiet, Langosteria London is refreshingly whimsical and noisy. 

“Langosteria creates energy,” Buonocore says. “It invites good people. It is a happy brand. And we are not a bling-bling restaurant. Our food is top quality. You remember what you eat, which means guests come back to us many times.” He grins. “We are bringing the fun into the hotel.” 

Buonocore doesn’t consider himself a restaurateur or an entrepreneur, even though he clearly has established himself as both. He grew up in Milan and began working in bars and restaurants in the city in his 20s. He always liked cooking, but didn’t fancy himself a chef, instead working behind the bar and in hospitality management. There was always an emphasis on quality food in his house, both as a child and as an adult. 

It’s a sensibility that has driven everything Buonocore does with Langosteria. There are around 10 different olive oils used in the kitchens, and they are reassessed every six months. Different restaurants serve different types of fish to ensure it’s as fresh as possible. Buonocore considers how long it will take for a particular product to arrive, whether it’s Brittany blue lobster in Paris or Scottish langoustines in London. 

“Maybe it’s fresh, but how long does it take to fly it there?” he says. “If clams take five or six days to arrive, then they are not local or fresh. And it’s not consistent. I will delay or change the dish if I don’t have the right product. There can’t be any compromise to the quality.”

Buonocore isn’t concerned that London has seen a dramatic influx of Italian restaurants over the past year, including Osteria Vibrato, Ornella and Sale e Pepe Mare, in a city already filled—even oversaturated—with the popular cuisine. “Langosteria is not only Italian,” he says. “Langosteria is Italian with an international attitude and a specialization in fish. We have a brand that’s very different to others in the market.” 

He likes River Café, which opened in Hammersmith in 1987, because the clientele is local and sophisticated. “It’s also very consistent food,” he says. “It’s not my style of décor because it’s too white, but the food is good. The people who go there are the people I want in my restaurant.” 

He adds of creating something that will last, “I don’t want to come to town to have a famous restaurant that is just some news. I want to establish my brand, establish my community and share our vision. Our restaurant is very different than what’s in the market now because we have our own touch.” 

Part of that touch is Buonocore’s insistence that pasta is a main course—a sentiment not shared by many Italian chefs. “For me, after pasta, basta,” he declares several times during lunch in May in Milan, where he is previewing some of the new dishes from London’s menu. These include risotto, which has never appeared in Langosteria before. Buonocore designed the London kitchen to include a dedicated risotto station, although the dish has yet to be made available (there’s a soft-launch menu until September). Guests can opt for salt-crusted sea bass or black grouper chateaubriand, but the meal will conclude with a variation of seafood pasta. 

Buonocore also repeatedly asserts that Italian cuisine doesn’t have to be heavy. You can finish with pasta, but still feel like it was light thanks to fresh ingredients, he says. Seafood and vegetables drive Langosteria’s offering (although, so does the more indulgent tiramisu). Buonocore believes that most people go home after a meal there and do not go right to sleep. “I help couples have sex,” he says proudly.

Part of the appeal of Langosteria is its strong branding and sense of identity. The charming, cartoonish characters appear on the walls, napkins and even the pins guests are offered as souvenirs. The stylish orange hue that augments the plates is the brand’s own Pantone color. It’s reminiscent of Hermès orange, but intended to evoke the restaurant’s namesake crustacean: a langoustine, which has a bright orange shell. This eye for detail is perhaps why the fashion set is so obsessed. Langosteria has collaborated with Dior, Fendi, Moncler and Acqua di Parma, and editors and designers frequent the restaurants during Fashion Week. 

Buonocore believes that opening in the right location is what brings in the right people. He’s refused “many” proposals for an outpost in the Middle East because it’s not his intended market. “I want to build the most important brand in the world,” he says. “But it has to be very elegant and in an international location. I opened seven restaurants in 20 years. Now I plan to open five or six restaurants in five years. Because now we are ready.”

This long-term strategy includes a plan for a restaurant in Madrid and another in Italy. But Buonocore’s vision extends beyond Europe. Exactly where, he won’t say. “Of course, the natural growing of our brand after Europe is to move to the U.S.,” he confirms. “It would be a star city, like New York, Miami, L.A., the Hamptons, Aspen, maybe Boston.”

Like each expansion, Langosteria London is its own proposition. Buonocore says one of the dining rooms used to be Churchill’s office, which is part of why the renovation was so difficult. There are luxurious elements of Italy—Murano glass, Verde Alpi marble, the silk wallpaper—but the history of the 1906 building, once the Old War Office, remains. Everything is precise and thoughtful, but the vibe is loose. Buonocore says he operates by his own book of rules. “It’s a natural vision,” he says. “And this isn’t only [my] vision, but the vision of the entire company.” 

The restaurant’s arrival during Wimbledon is no accident, nor is the plan to open slowly. Langosteria London will remain in a soft launch until September to ensure it’s ready. The opening menu is smaller than the eventual offering, and Buonocore says he wants to immerse himself slowly into the city rather than with a big splash. 

“Right now, we are being quiet,” he says. “After two years in construction, we are ready to start to welcome people and we have an incredible team ready. I’m a competitive man, really competitive, and I’m happy to start having a competition with all the brands in town.”

Buonocore knows the power of the brand he’s created. He also knows people will be curious to experience it in a new city. But with Langosteria, he’s playing a long game. “I don’t want success in a few weeks or a few months, but long-term,” he says. “We have arrived, and we are going to bring the fun to London.” 

Even though not every club is tailored specifically to a wealthy, well-connected crowd, joining can still be an expensive, time-consuming endeavor. And each comes with its own set of benefits, whether it’s gym access, networking events, office space, rooftop pools or special events. Soho House, which has over 10 locations across the city, is perhaps the most well-known, but smaller, less obvious clubs can better suit those looking for a more personalized experience. Others, like Annabel’s, are about clout. Here are 12 of London’s top members’ clubs, groups that may bring you one step closer to society’s poshest set. Or, at least, give you access to what is perhaps London’s rarest amenity: a pool.

Annabel’s

• 46 Berkeley Square, London W1J 5AT

Mayfair’s elite club Annabel’s first opened at 44 Berkeley Square in 1963. It was founded by the late Mark Birley, who named the club for his then-wife, Lady Annabel Vane-Tempest-Stewart. It was one of London’s first nightclubs and was (and remains) a popular haunt for the British aristocracy, as well as royals like Princess Diana. After years of success, the Birley family sold Annabel’s in 2007, shortly before Mark Birley’s death, and it was later reopened next door in 2018. It has a huge waitlist of prospective members, and the specific criteria for acceptance are kept secret. The fashionable club has a strict dress code (no ripped denim, formal shoes, no shorts for men under any circumstances, and a required blazer for men after 6 p.m.) and disallows any photos or videos. Members—and their chosen guests—have access to several restaurants and bars, as well as a cigar salon. Annabel’s often hosts parties for fashion week or around awards shows like the BAFTA Film Awards.

Soho House

• 40 Greek Street, London W1D 4EB
• 76 Dean Street, London W1D 3SQ
• 180 The Strand, London WC2R 1EA
• 2 Queen Street, London W1J 5PA
• 1 Ebor Street, London E1 6AW
• 2 Television Centre, 101 Wood Lane, London W12 7FQ
• 191 Portobello Road, London W11 2ED
• 162-166 Chiswick High Road, London W4 1PR
• 15-19 Bedford Hill, London SW12 9DS

Hospitality guru Nick Jones founded Soho House in London in 1995 with the launch of 40 Greek Street in Soho. It expanded relatively rapidly, and each of London’s outposts has a slightly different vibe and membership—Shoreditch House draws more of a hipster party crowd, for example, while 180 House is beloved by an artsy set. It long maintained that it catered to those in arts-related careers, with an emphasis on the music and film communities. Depending on the membership tier, benefits include access to the house’s top-of-the-line health clubs, tons of events and screenings, and spaces for meetings and networking. It’s no longer particularly well-suited to remote working due to restrictions on laptop use, but Soho Works is a possible add-on membership for those who want to escape the home office. Membership costs vary based on your primary house, but for all-house access in the U.K., it’s around £4,500 ($6,000) annually or £375 per month. In the summer, the pool at Shoreditch House is almost worth the monthly fee.

Home House

• 20 Portman Square, London W1H 6LW

Located in a Georgian townhouse on Portman Square, Home House was transformed from a private home into a members’ club in 1998. It’s as discreet as it is exclusive—according to Tatler, Madonna once lived in one of the suites while her own home was being renovated. It’s named for the Countess of Home, a former resident. It’s quite architecturally impressive thanks to the historic building it occupies, and it boasts a first-class art collection. The club is a social hub for members, with bedrooms, restaurants and lounge spaces. Full members paying £4,450 a year can also access wellness facilities and Home House Studio, a second club intended for coworking. It’s hosted parties for plenty of famous people over the years, although it’s not totally clear what qualifies someone for membership. Home House boasts itself as “somewhere you can be yourself and bring all of your curiosity,” which does sound pretty appealing, albeit rather vague.

The House of Koko

• 74 Crowndale Rd, London NW1 1TP

The House of Koko launched above iconic Camden music venue Koko in 2022, making it one of London’s newer additions to the members’ club scene. It’s ideal for music fans, who can access more than 150 live shows a year via a private members-only balcony. The club features three restaurants, eight bars, vinyl listening rooms and a penthouse space that includes a high-spec recording studio for podcasts and music. The House of Koko has a vast calendar of events, DJ nights and talks, and, bonus, dogs are welcome during the week. This is one for Londoners who love vibrant nightlife or who are looking to network with fellow music lovers—basically, you should be cool if you want to join. Annual membership runs £2,450 for those over 35 and £1,650 for those under 35.

Ned’s Club

• 27 Poultry, London EC2R 8AJ

The Ned debuted in 2017 at the former Midland Bank headquarters, another project from Nick Jones, who stepped down from the Soho House brand in 2022. The grand building houses a stylish hotel with 250 rooms, 10 restaurants, 17 bars and a spa. Part of the hotel is also home to Ned’s Club, a members’ club that offers access to the impressive rooftop pool and terrace, a downstairs club in the bank’s former vault and a high-end gym. There are daily events for members, who also get perks at the public restaurants and when booking rooms. It’s loosely related to Soho House, but the memberships are different, making this a slightly more exclusive proposition. The big win is the pool, which has views overlooking London and is, thankfully, heated. Membership is £4,100 each year, with a reduced rate of £2,750 for under-30s.

Groucho Club

• 45 Dean St, London W1D 4QB

Artists, writers and journalists have congregated in the Groucho Club since 1985, when it was established by a group of mostly women publishers “as an antidote to the stuffy gentlemen’s clubs.” It has a serious art collection on display in its Soho club and the vibe is sophisticated and cool. Members (who have included Cara Delevingne and Lily Allen) all have artistic roles in the creative industries, and prospective joiners must be proposed by an existing member. The club features several bars and restaurants, as well as a terrace and boutique bedrooms. It draws its name from the famous Groucho Marx quote (“I don’t want to belong to any club that will accept me as a member”), although this is a club where you likely would, in fact, want to become a member.

1 Warwick

• 1 Warwick St, London W1B 5LR

Those looking for a club for both working and socializing can find it at 1 Warwick, located in a neo-Baroque mansion in Soho. It’s chock-full of amenities, including work and office spaces, a gym with daily fitness classes and a rooftop restaurant. The club is run by Maslow’s, which also owns the members’ clubs Mortimer House and Maslow’s Kensington, and members can access all three spaces with one membership. It feels swanky and thoughtful, especially in the workspaces, which are well-suited to working away from home or from the office. Prospective members can choose between regular access to the club (from £300 per month), access to a desk (from £1,200 per month) or access to a dedicated workspace (from £1,100 per month). Whatever you select, the perks are A+, from bike storage to desk-side dining to holistic wellness classes.

Pavilion Club

• 64 Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7JF
• 96 Kensington High St, London W8 4SG
• Cannon Green, 27 Bush Lane, London EC4R
• 81-83 Fulham High St, London SW6 3JW

Pavilion Club launched its first coworking space in Kensington in 2011, and eventually expanded into a members’ club with locations in Knightsbridge, the City of London and Fulham. Pavilion welcomes both creatives and professionals, and there’s a big effort to help people meet their fellow club-goers. For those who need to get some work done, there are quiet libraries, Zoom booths and meeting rooms, while more casual guests can hang out in the bars or order food. Each location has a slightly different vibe and layout—the Knightsbridge location is better suited to socializing, while Kensington and Fulham are for the more productive set. Membership fees vary based on what you’re looking for, but expect between £175 ands £295 per month.

Mark’s Club

• 46 Charles St, London W1J 5EJ

Mark’s Club was founded by Annabel’s Mark Birley in 1972 and changed hands in 2007; its interiors were most recently redone in 2015. The fashionable spot has hosted events for the likes of Gwyneth Paltrow, David Beckham and Vivienne Westwood. It requires an “elegant” dress code, which is specific to both male and female guests, befitting its Mayfair location and opulent decor. Mark’s Club is where you go out, whether it’s for dinner or drinks, and it’s typically an A-lister affair. If you can get in, you’re probably someone.

The Other House

• 15-17 Harrington Gardens, South Kensington, London SW7 4JJ

The Other House, located in Kensington, is part hotel and part members’ club. The club welcomes “independent and forward-thinking individuals” to its private lounges and fitness and wellness spaces, where special events are held regularly. The Kensington location, founded in 2022 by Naomi Heaton, is well-designed and modern, and the guest rooms offer long-term stay options. A Covent Garden outpost, expected to open soon, will be even grander, featuring a rooftop terrace and lots of areas to socialize or meet with colleagues. This is a good choice if you want access to a comfortable, chic space and a gym along with a calendar of events, though it’s not specifically tailored to coworking.

For non-fans, tennis can seem like an unexciting sport. Or, at least, it lacks the cinematic drama of football or baseball, two of Hollywood’s favorite subjects when it comes to sports movies. In Luca Guadagnino’s film Challengers, tennis prodigy Tashi Duncan (Zendaya) meaningfully declares that “Tennis is a relationship.” And in Challengers, perhaps the most engaging movie to ever center around the world of tennis, it’s the relationships that keep the drama alive. 

Set over a single tension-filled match, the film is an electric, kinetic sports movie that never really feels like a sports movie at all. It also makes you want to either pick up a racquet yourself or go watch another tennis-themed flick. And Hollywood has made a surprising number of movies set around the court, from dramas to comedies to documentaries. Whether you’re looking for a biopic like King Richard or a satire like 7 Days in Hell, here are the 10 best tennis movies out there—Challengers included. 

Challengers (2024)

Directed by Luca Guadagnino and written by Justin Kuritzkes, Challengers sets the stakes high both on the court and in the fraught relationships between injured tennis prodigy Tashi Duncan (Zendaya), her world-famous tennis champion husband Art Donaldson (Mike Faist), and their long-time pal/rival Patrick Zweig (Josh O’Connor). Art, whose career is coached by Tashi, is ready to retire, but not before he takes down Patrick, an old friend with a romantic history with Tashi. The narrative shifts between timelines, slowly revealing just why these two players want to win so badly. It’s a showcase for all of the actors, but also for fashion designer Jonathan Anderson, who created the aspirational costumes, and for composers Trent Reznor and Atticus Ross, whose score is the icing on the already sexy cake. 

Battle of the Sexes (2017)

Battle of the Sexes, directed by Valerie Faris and Jonathan Dayton and written by Simon Beaufoy, recreates a real-life event in tennis history—with a few dramatized flourishes. The film is based around the 1973 match between Billie Jean King (Emma Stone) and Bobby Riggs (Steve Carell), a pivotal moment in women’s sports. Although the outcome is relatively well-known, the filmmakers keep the narrative taut and uncertain, showcasing the actual investment of both players. Stone and Carell were both nominated for Golden Globes and Carell earned a SAG nod for, but the hair and makeup transformations are as memorable as the acting. 

Wimbledon (2004)

The early 2000s brought a deluge of romantic comedies, some more memorable than others. One of these second tier films was Wimbledon, from British director Richard Loncraine. It starred Paul Bettany as faltering tennis pro Peter Colt and Kirsten Dunst as up-and-coming player Lizzie Bradbury, who meet cute when Peter earns a wild card slot at Wimbledon. It featured a lot of real tennis—pro athletes were cast as characters and served as tennis doubles for the leads—and scenes were filmed during the actual 2003 Wimbledon Championships. It’s a reasonably sweet love story, with charming performances from Bettany and Dunst, and fans will spot several now-famous actors in the mix, including James McAvoy and Nikolaj Coster-Waldau. It’s not a top-seed film, but it’s a likable watch with a sense of authenticity. 

King Richard (2021)

Venus and Serena Williams are two of tennis’s most interesting figures, as is their father Richard Williams, who coached the pair to pro success. Reinaldo Marcus Green’s biographical drama King Richard recounts the young life of the Williams sisters (Saniyya Sidney and Demi Singleton) and their rise to fame under the guidance of their father (Will Smith). The film, which also stars Jon Bernthal and Aunjanue Ellis, is a compelling look at what it takes to become great, especially if you are a Black woman in America. The role won Smith his infamous Oscar for Best Actor, and pulled in dozens of nominations and other awards, including an NAACP Image Awards. It’s one to revisit if you missed it when it first came out. 

Borg vs. McEnroe (2017)

During the 1980s, Björn Borg and John McEnroe had a memorable rivalry, which came to a head at the 1980 Wimbledon Championships. Danish filmmaker Janus Metz Pedersen’s underrated film Borg vs. McEnroe showcases this match and all of the drama surrounding it with compelling flair. Sverrir Gudnason plays Borg, a disciplined Swedish champion, while Shia LaBeouf embodies McEnroe, known for his abrasive demeanor. Although the film didn’t make a huge impact on release, it’s an engaging look at how two very different people approached the same sport. It also makes tennis seem surprisingly cinematic—a challenging feat. 

7 Days in Hell (2015)

Jake Szymanski’s mockumentary 7 Days in Hell was inspired by John Isner’s real-life match against Nicolas Mahut at 2010 Wimbledon Championships, although it’s far more ridiculous. Presented as an HBO Sports documentary incorporating BBC footage, the movie follows two pro players, Aaron Williams (Andy Samberg) and Charles Poole (Kit Harington), who play the longest tennis match in history. It has a stacked cast, with Michael Sheen, Mary Steenburgen, June Squibb and Fred Armisen all making appearances, and Jon Hamm steps in as the narrator. The filmmakers even tapped actual players like Serena Williams and John McEnroe to be part of the faux documentary, which is hilarious and edgy at the same time. 

Citizen Ashe (2021)

Arthur Ashe made essential contributions to both tennis and civil rights. Citizen Ashe, from directors Rex Miller and Sam Pollard, charts Ashe’s rise after he became the first Black player to win the U.S. Open in 1968. The documentary features commentary from Johnnie Ashe, Billie Jean King, John McEnroe, Donald Dell and Lenny Simpson, among others, and focuses on why and how Ashe became a political activist who wanted to use his platform for social justice. It’s a well-made and thoughtful tribute to Ashe, although it remained out of the awards race the year it was released. 

Match Point (2005)

The world of tennis never seemed as sinister as it did in Match Point, Woody Allen’s psychological thriller, which earned an Oscar nomination for Best Original Screenplay. Jonathan Rhys Meyers played Chris Wilton, a retired tennis pro who has become an instructor at a high-end London club. It’s there he meets Tom Hewett (Matthew Goode), his sister Chloe (Emily Mortimer), and his American fiancée Nola Rice (Scarlett Johansson), which results in a tangled mess of marriages, break-ups and affairs. Things get pretty dark—if you haven’t seen it don’t spoil the mid-story twist for yourself online—and it features a strong cast with a lot of notable London locations. Sure, the tennis isn’t really that important to the narrative, but as a backdrop for the scheming of the elite rich it’s a good one. 

Venus and Serena (2012)

This documentary about Williams sisters is a solidly engaging watch. Directed by Maiken Baird and Michelle Major, the film played at the 2012 Toronto Film Festival and the Tribeca Film Festival and took an inside look at the two players’ lives and careers with insight from their father Richard and tennis coach Oracene Price. It’s a relatively surface-level investigation into the sisters, with some depths left to be desired, but the pair are inherently compelling, especially when you get to see them play. It makes for a good double feature with 2016 doc Serena, from director Ryan White. 

Strokes of Genius (2018)

Yet another movie about a tennis rivalry, Strokes of Genius documents the 2008 Wimbledon final between Roger Federer and Rafael Nadal, which is now considered to be one of the best matches in the sport. The film, directed by Andrew Douglas, combines footage and interviews to recount the famous match, which is compared to other similar pair-ups like Borg versus McEnroe. Hearing the athletes themselves reminiscence on the historical moment is the best part, although the surrounding commentary is equally reflective. It’s one of the better tennis documentaries out there, especially if you are too young to remember the actual match. 

And if you are going, although Wimbledon is located outside the city center, it’s easily accessed on the Underground from many hotels, making it a good idea to pair an overnight stay with an afternoon tea experience. Whether you’re looking for a low-key afternoon drinking Champagne and eating strawberries or you want to go full-out with an indulgent selection of tennis-themed pastries, you’ll find it in London in the next few weeks. Here are the London hotels with the best Wimbledon experiences for 2026.

Wimbledon Afternoon Tea at The Royal Horseguards Hotel

• 2 Whitehall Ct, London SW1A 2EJ

Want a finger sandwich with your tennis? The Green Parlour at The Royal Horseguards Hotel will serve a Wimbledon afternoon tea from June 29 through July 12. It will feature sandwiches and scones alongside three Wimbledon-themed desserts inspired by the tournament, including a lemon cheesecake combining raspberries, Pimm’s and lemon. The Parlour’s terrace will also feature a screen showcasing the tournament. A similar experience can be booked at the Clermont Hotel Group’s other properties: The Clermont London Charing Cross, The Tower Hotel and The Clermont London Victoria. 

Centre Court-Yard at The Ham Yard Hotel

• 1 Ham Yard, London W1D 7DT

For the third year in a row, Soho’s Ham Yard Hotel will transform its terrace into a Wimbledon viewing space. The hotel will broadcast the championships each day of Wimbledon from 11 a.m., although visitors will need to book a spot for the Ladies’ and Gentlemen’s Singles and Doubles Finals on July 11 and 12. Along with the big screen, the Ham Yard will serve special cocktails and classic strawberries and cream, alongside a themed afternoon tea (£53 per person) offered either inside or as an outdoor picnic (the tea, of course, includes a Pimm’s No.1 tartlet). 

Strawberry Afternoon Tea at The Peninsula London

• 1 Grosvenor Pl, London SW1X 7HJ

The Peninsula London will host a seasonal strawberry afternoon tea (£85 per person) in celebration of summer tennis from July 13 through September 6. The tea, served in the hotel’s grand lobby and in the 8th-floor restaurant, Soleil by Claude, will feature strawberry-led pastries, like a strawberry choux with strawberry compote. It will also include a chocolate tennis ball in honor of Wimbledon, which guests will be invited to smash open with a mini tennis racquet during the experience.

Wimbledon Afternoon Tea at The Milestone

• 1-3 Kensington Ct, London W8 5DL

Not only is The Milestone an elegant hotel with a good location for those heading to Wimbledon, but the boutique property is also serving up a themed afternoon tea (£85 per person) from June 29 through July 12. Served in the luxury hotel’s Park Lounge, the tea will showcase sweet treats inspired by the tournament, including a tennis ball pastry. If you want to go really big, book into the Hermès Suite, a stylish room with a collection of vintage Hermès scarves on the walls.

Garden Room Terrace at The Lanesborough

• Hyde Park Corner, London SW1X 7TA

Enjoy British summertime on The Lanesborough’s Garden Room Terrace, a quiet space not far from the buzz of Hyde Park Corner. To celebrate Wimbledon, the hotel will serve a glass of Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle Iteration No. 27 alongside Kentish strawberries and cream—a discerning treat for those who want to enjoy the taste of the championships without the crowds.

Wimbledon Experience at The Egerton House Hotel

• 17-19 Egerton Terrace, London SW3 2BX

Travelers can book a minimum two-night stay at The Egerton House Hotel to embark on the hotel’s special Wimbledon Experience (£3,510 per room per night). It includes a pair of Centre Court or Court One tickets, with exclusive access to the Debenture Lounge, as well as daily breakfast, Wimbledon-themed turndown service and complimentary tickets to the nearby V&A Museum. The hotel will even provide an Oyster card so you can take the Tube to the tournament without hassle.

Wimbledon Afternoon Tea at Hotel Café Royal

• 10 Air St, London W1B 5AB

To celebrate the annual tennis tournament, Hotel Café Royal will debut a limited-edition afternoon tea. Dubbed “Game, Set, Matcha!,” the experience will run June 22 through July 19 and feature seasonal treats that pay homage to Wimbledon. The centerpiece of the tea is the matcha court, a cake that echoes the actual tennis court, and guests can also expect a tennis ball cake and strawberry sorbet. Hotel Café Royal already serves a memorable afternoon tea thanks to its historic setting and tea sommelier, and the hotel, located in Piccadilly Circus, is one of the city’s most popular luxury stays. 

Wimbledon in the Garden at The Zetter Bloomsbury

• 2-7 Montague St, London WC1B 5BP

The Zetter Bloomsbury debuted an immersive Wimbledon experience on June 29. Running through July 12, the hotel will use its private garden and Orangery as an elegant setting for daily match screenings, seasonal drinks and a limited-edition Wimbledon afternoon tea. Themed drinks will include the strawberries-and-cream frosé, while the afternoon tea, served in the Orangery, will feature an Eton mess cup and strawberry-and-cream entremets. Guests can take advantage of deck chairs spread out around the garden and can indulge in a picnic hamper filled with Lanson Champagne, strawberries and cream, a sausage roll or cheese and onion quiche, and chocolate (£75 each).

Strawberry Season Afternoon Tea at The Langham

• 1C Portland Pl, London W1B 1JA

Wimbledon has long been associated with British strawberries thanks to its summer setting. The Langham will pay homage to the seasonal fruit with a special strawberry season afternoon tea in its elegant Palm Court (£85 per person). The tea, available June 22 through Aug. 2, will showcase vine-ripened strawberries from Kent farm J Myatt and Co Ltd. in various forms, including seasonal pastries, homemade strawberry ice cream and sorbet—all served from a bespoke strawberry cart. It’s not specifically Wimbledon themed, but it certainly celebrates one of the best treats of the tournament.

Wimbledon Afternoon Tea at the InterContinental London Park Lane

• One Hamilton Place, Park Ln, London W1J 7QY

The InterContinental London Park Lane will host a special afternoon tea in its Wellington Lounge from June 15 through July 12 (£85 per person). The whimsical pastries include a calamansi and raspberry tennis ball and a British strawberries-and-cream hat, and guests can, of course, spread strawberry and vanilla jam on the scones. It’s a particularly theatrical experience that includes a Veuve Clicquot trolley with bottles popped by the servers with swords. A vegetarian version and a kid-friendly menu are available.

Summer of Sports at Mandarin Oriental Mayfair

• 22 Hanover Square, London W1S 1JP

The Mandarin Oriental Mayfair is paying homage to all things sport this summer, including Wimbledon and the Formula 1 British Grand Prix. The curated program offers guests priority access to Centre Court tickets and VIP Silverstone experiences, alongside themed in-hotel flourishes like signature Wimbledon cocktails.

Cocktail Pairing at Beaverbrook Townhouse

• 115-116 Sloane St, London SW1X 9PJ

Tennis lovers can combine their passion for the sport with an interest in culinary creations at Beaverbrook Townhouse in Chelsea. The hotel has created a limited-edition pairing inspired by the tournament’s most iconic flavors: the 1877 cocktail, named after the year Wimbledon began, and a twist on strawberries and cream. The cocktail features yuzushu, fino sherry, cucumber and Cocchi Americano Bianco vermouth, and it’s served alongside a Japanese-style strawberry sando with either matcha or yuzu. 

While some chefs fly ingredients in from all over the world, Tommy Banks is interested in what’s in his backyard. The chef grew up in Oldstead, a village in the northeast of England, and he’s built an entire career in the area, dedicating himself to cultivating the best possible products from the region. His Michelin-starred restaurant, The Black Swan, celebrates its 20th anniversary in August—a milestone that showcases just how much the destination has evolved. 

“It’s night and day,” Banks tells Observer. “When we first opened, I was a 17-year-old kid, and it was a local pub. For the last decade, my focus has been on creating something unique and something that’s solely of the area.”

Banks, 37, grew up on his parents’ small farm, where they also ran a bed and breakfast. It was hard to make ends meet solely by farming wheat, barley and rapeseed, so when Banks was a teenager, his parents took on the local pub, The Black Swan. “I had no interest in it whatsoever,” he says. “I worked there because I’d left school and needed a job. I waited tables, I washed pots.”

At the time, Banks didn’t consider becoming a chef. He dreamed of pursuing a career as a cricket player. But when he was 18, his grandfather died, and the grief was so intense he developed an aggressive autoimmune disease called ulcerative colitis. He had part of his bowel removed and was bedridden for months. 

“That put to bed any ideas of being a professional sportsman,” he says. “I had three operations, and it was very sobering and very tough. I had left school, I didn’t have my health, and the only work experience I had was at The Black Swan. But I was very determined and also a bit frustrated, so I threw myself into cooking. The amazing thing was that you could get all of the things that you could get through sport. You could win accolades, and you could be acclaimed.”

For the first few years, The Black Swan struggled. Banks worked under head chef Adam Jackson, an ambitious chef who helped guide the restaurant to a Michelin star in 2012 by elevating the restaurant’s standards and tightening the kitchen—a huge surprise. Jackson left the following year, putting Banks in charge of the kitchen at only 23 years old. “I was aware we had this Michelin star, and I needed to keep it,” he recalls. “I used to work seven days a week and cooked every plate of food. I thought if I did it all myself, it would be fine. And I retained the star.”

At 24, Banks became the youngest chef in the U.K. to earn a star. But he was also overwhelmed by imposter syndrome. He hadn’t gone to culinary school, and he had never trained with a prestigious chef. He once spent two days working at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, but otherwise, Banks taught himself. He read a lot of cookbooks, drawing inspiration from chefs like Heston Blumenthal and Sat Bains, but Banks felt he lacked the worldview of his peers. 

“I’d never traveled, I’ve never been trained,” he says. “I didn’t have any of these things to draw on. So what could I draw from? But I realized I had grown up on a farm, so maybe it could be farming and the land we lived on. I was like, ‘Right, I want to only cook with things we’ve grown ourselves or forage.’ My parents were hugely on board, and we really flew into it. Some of the dishes in the early days were very experimental, but over the last 13 years, we’ve really refined it to a point where we have a whole palette of ingredients.”

Today, Banks and his team create The Black Swan’s signature tasting menu (£195 for dinner and £135 for lunch) using products grown in the restaurant’s expansive garden or reared on the regenerative farm, including their own Dexter cows. There is a three-person foraging and preservation team who focus solely on keeping the larder fully stocked. Banks estimates that at least 90 percent of the ingredients served at The Black Swan are picked or foraged from their own land.

“For me, it’s all driven towards flavor, so if it’s delicious, we’ll pick it,” Banks says. “We can create really exotic flavors from things that are on the ground. I love sweet woodruff because it tastes like vanilla. There’s wild grass that tastes like vanilla, and yet you import vanilla from the other side of the world. We found we could create all of the flavors of the world, but using things that were already there in front of us.”

A few products, like asparagus and lion’s mane mushrooms, come from nearby farms, but Banks is primarily interested in how things taste in Oldstead. He no longer serves fish at The Black Swan because it has to come from too far afield. (It is on the menu at his other restaurants, Roots in York and The Abbey Inn in Byland.) 

“The more restrictions you put in place, the more it promotes creativity,” Banks says. “It’s really difficult to be creative if you can use anything you want. If I make a dessert in February and can use anything in the world, I’d go for Alfonso mangoes from India or chocolate. In North Yorkshire in February, there is rhubarb and anything that you had the foresight to preserve. Restrictions are the ultimate catalyst for creativity.” 

One of the desserts at The Black Swan, for example, is created with koji, an ingredient made by fermenting grains. It has a rich flavor that tastes—and looks—like chocolate, offering a familiar sensation for the diner, even though it’s an entirely new creation. Banks is interested in how a process of preservation can change or enhance how something tastes. Time, he says, is the biggest gift you can have as a chef. 

“A fermented turnip sounds like the least glamorous thing you could think of,” he explains. “But if you do it over a long enough period of time, the depth of flavor is insane. It’s a case of having the patience to do it and to want to do it in the right way. You end up with something way more unique.”

The foraging team collects everything from sweet cicely to wild garlic to elderflower, depending on the time of year. There are multiple shipping containers filled with preserves. It requires a lot of planning ahead, but Banks says it pays off. The restaurant’s Negroni, for instance, uses a homemade vermouth made of 18 botanicals they either forage or grow, including wormwood and tangerine marigolds. Banks has spent so much time collecting, tasting and preserving ingredients that he can tell exactly where they grew on the land. 

“I like the word terroir in French, especially when it refers to wine because it refers to a very specific flavor of a very specific location,” he explains. “It sounds really pompous when you say it as an English person, but it does explain what I mean. It’s to a point where I only like to pick the sweet woodruff from a certain bank because it tastes way better than on the other side of the farm. That’s down to a geographic place.”

He adds, “It’s not food miles because it all comes from here. It’s actually down to the idea of what’s within that mile.”

After finding success with The Black Swan, Banks debuted Roots in York in 2018. It received a Michelin star in 2021. Between the farm and his three restaurants, Banks has built a mini-empire in an area of England that is less prosperous than the south. He wants to continue investing in the area, an important part of The Black Swan’s two-decade legacy. Today, The Black Swan has nine bedrooms, which only adds to its destination-like appeal, and visitors can also pop by the more casual Abbey Inn. 

“Restaurants in the middle of nowhere really struggle to exist, so you have to build something that people are willing to travel for,” he says. “But the upshot of that is we’ve now got around 170 people employed within the business. We’ve created a community of young professional people in a really rural area. And over the next 20 years, it’s about how we can deepen that impact.”

Banks tries to be in the kitchen as often as possible, but often finds himself dealing with the administrative side of the business. He’s become a vocal campaigner for fairer tax regulations on restaurants in the U.K. Currently, the British government puts a 20 percent VAT on food. Banks, along with many other chefs here, are attempting to get it lowered. Banks was forced to start a side business catering at sports stadiums to earn enough to pay off the VAT increase in 2025. 

“It’s mentally really tough,” he says. “And what breaks my heart is that so many people aren’t surviving it. Since I’ve started campaigning for lower VAT, my DMs are full of heartbroken people who’ve lost their businesses. I find it very frustrating, and I really want to try and keep pushing to effect change. But it also keeps you so honest because it is a real fear that everything you’ve built over 20 years could vanish.”

On July 17, Banks will debut a one-man stage show, Spinning Plates: Live!, at the York Theatre Royal to reflect on these challenges, as well as his journey as a chef. It will incorporate documentary footage he’s been shooting over the last year with a filmmaker pal, and it covers everything “from the loveliness of it to the grim reality.” Banks wrote the show himself and hopes there might be additional live dates. The documentary, also titled Spinning Plates, will follow. 

“It’s a test for me,” he says. “Everything points towards this north star of wanting to put my area on the map and really invest in it. We can do that for a couple of hours with people at The Black Swan when they come for dinner. But if I create media and content and tell them stories, that would be even better.”

The Black Swan will hold several special events in August around the anniversary, and guests can also expect to find a 20-ingredient Negroni temporarily on the drinks menu. Banks is also planning a party with all of his fellow chefs from the northeast, where more and more Michelin-starred dining has emerged over the years, including House of Tides’ Kenny Atkinson and Forge’s Jake Jones. Banks is proud to be celebrating 20 years, but he also sees the moment as an opportunity to reflect on how hard it is to maintain a restaurant in the U.K. today.  

“It’s an interesting juxtaposition because on one hand you’re incredibly grateful,” he says. “My career has taken me to amazing places. I’m very privileged in some respects. But at the same time, it is really tough. We should look after small businesses. They make the lifeblood of what is great about not just this country, but any country.”

The Black Swan, certainly, is now part of what makes Oldstead great.

Omakase typically features a variety of raw fish, including nigiri and temaki, as well as hot dishes like tempura or soup. It can be a formal, traditional experience, or veer toward a more unconventional, modern interpretation. Either way, an excellent omakase is an unforgettable experience that goes beyond the food itself. 

The past decade has brought a slew of new omakase options to London. The Araki, initially led by sushi master Mitsuhiro Araki, debuted in 2014 and by 2018, had earned three Michelin stars. Endo at the Rotunda, from revered chef Endo Kazutoshi, arrived in 2019, setting a high bar for London omakase. (Endo closed last year after a fire, and is currently operating a pop-up at Annabel’s.) Sushi Kanesaka, from Shinji Kanesaka, opened in 2023, upping the ante for quality and discerning service. 

Less traditional takes, like Luna Omakase, and more approachable options, like Kurisu Omakase, have ensured that locals and visitors can access a similar experience in a more accessible setting. There are, of course, plenty of casual Japanese and sushi restaurants throughout the city, but these omakases represent a coveted premium—the best of the best.

Sushi Kanesaka

• 45 Park Ln, London W1K 1PN

Hidden inside the Dorchester’s 45 Park Lane hotel, Sushi Kanesaka is widely considered London’s premier omakase. It is also the most expensive, at £420 per person. That price tag gets you a 20-course experience with head chef Hirotaka Wada, who creates each piece of sushi with extreme precision and dedication. The menu features numerous high-end ingredients, including multiple cuts of tuna, A5 Kobe beef, beluga caviar and blue lobster, all served with the accouterments that best suit each product. Watching Wada work is worth the cost—the space is so intimate, you are up close to the action from every seat. It’s a splurge, but a special occasion necessitates this level of artistry. You’ll be thinking about the mouthwatering negi-toro hand roll, chopped and rolled to order, for weeks to come.

Sushi Amamoto

• 36 Albemarle St, London W1S 4JE

Formerly Sushi Taku, Sushi Amamoto is led by founder and executive chef Shogo Amamoto, whose Taipei omakase restaurant has a year-long waitlist. The chef is known for Edomae-style sushi and an obsession over each element of the experience, from the fish to the rice to the water used to cook the rice. Sushi Amamoto, helmed by head chef Jongho Park, showcases this precision in an immaculate space, complete with a stylish cell phone mat at each place setting. There are two menus available: a 17-course lunch omakase (£180) and a 22-course prestige dinner omakase (£380), with an option to add a sommelier pairing. The menu shifts based on what’s available, but the rolled oshizushi course is a delightful constant. There are only 16 seats, so book early.

Luna Omakase

• 100 Liverpool St, London EC2M 2AT

Located within Los Mochis London City, Luna Omakase is a contemporary, fashionable take on an omakase. It features 12 seats and showcases a reimagining of Sosaku-style Edomae cuisine, inspired by the 12 phases of the moon. Guests are served 12 courses, each corresponding to a distinct lunar cycle, and no menu is the same. It’s led by executive head chef Leonard Tanyag, who envisioned an omakase experience that embraced tradition while also exploring creativity—a sensibility also showcased in the stylish décor. The menu runs £230, with the option to add drinks and additional sushi.

Juno Omakase

• 2-4 Farmer St, London W8 7SN

Only six guests at a time can partake in Juno Omakase, also from chef Leonard Tanyag. It combines Japanese tradition with Mexican flavors and styles—an unusual take that results in ingredients like purple perilla salt, gusano, and guajillo soy. The menu, at £230, spans 15 courses, with each day offering something completely unique. It’s tough to score a reservation due to limited seating, but it’s well worth the time and effort. Like Luna Omakase, Juno is part of Los Mochis, a group of Japanese-Mexican fusion restaurants spanning London (and, next year, Los Angeles). It’s a less traditional pick, but a great entry into omakase for those who aren’t as familiar with it.

Maru

• 18 Shepherd Market, London W1J 7QH

Chefs Yasushiro Ochiai and Taiji Maruyama helm Maru, a formal omakase in Mayfair that primarily uses British ingredients and fish. The restaurant takes a farm-to-table approach—everything is seasonal and at its peak flavor. The space is exceptionally stylish, with great detail in each serve. Maru’s self-described “pure art” menu typically runs 18 courses, with the option for a sake pairing. Dinner costs £220, with lunch offered for £180 on Saturdays only. Maru is a sister restaurant to Taka, a contemporary Japanese eatery in Marylebone with a more accessible and budget-friendly menu.

Mayha

• 43 Chiltern St, London W1U 6LS

Mayha unfolds in an elegant Mayfair space with just 11 seats around a curved wooden countertop. The dinner menu, £200 per person, is served across two seatings, while the shorter lunch menu, £100 per person, is available Tuesday through Saturday for those who want a more compact experience (dinner is by reservation only). The ever-changing, seasonal menu focuses on craftsmanship and tradition, and the service is synchronized for all guests. Reservations are most often available during the week, making this a good pick for a last-minute dinner that won’t completely break the bank.

Tobi Masa

• 30 Grosvenor Sq, London W1K

The opulent Chancery Rosewood hotel is home to Tobi Masa, the latest outpost from revered chef Masayoshi Takayama. The sushi restaurant is as elegant as the hotel, which opened last fall, and inside its vast dining room is a seven-seat omakase counter. There are two seatings per night—6 p.m. and 8:30 p.m.—and for £260, guests can enjoy a range of sushi and sashimi served with impeccable attention to detail. The menu shifts based on what fish is currently available, but often features tuna, scallops and Scottish langoustines. It’s not as intimate as some of the other London omakase options, but it’s a great way to enjoy Takayama’s approach.

For Aktar Islam, cooking is a process of discovery. Each dish on the expansive tasting menu at his two-Michelin-starred restaurant, Opheem, is the result of years of curiosity and cultivation—something you can taste in each course. The restaurant, a calm oasis off a busy street in central Birmingham, showcases the breadth of Indian cuisine across 10 courses, from an elevated take on Delhi’s aloo tuk to a West Bengal-inspired fish broth called amla tok. 

Instead of focusing on a particular region, as many Indian restaurants do, Opheem tells the story of a British chef who grew up in a multicultural city with immigrant parents. Islam, 46, has spent his entire career exploring the possibilities of Indian flavors, ingredients and traditions. 

“My parents are from Bangladesh and West Bengal, and I had cultural delicacies I was brought up with and I understood,” he tells Observer, speaking from the dining room of his more casual London restaurant, Oudh 1722, which opened in April. “But I was able to also experience so much more, which led me to be curious about cooking from other parts of India and the Indian diaspora. My approach and understanding of Indian food is very wide and varied.”

Islam grew up in the Aston area of Birmingham, a diverse neighborhood near the soccer stadium. His parents owned a restaurant, India Palace, but his mom also often watched the long-running BBC Two culinary show Food and Drink and copied the recipes, which meant Islam learned about more than just Indian cuisine. His neighbors would also trade dishes, exposing the chef to food from all over the world. 

“We got a little bit of everything,” he says. “People ask why the cooking at Opheem is so broad, and it’s because I’m a Brummie, born and bred. I don’t actually have any cultural ties or biases. I enjoy everything just as much.”

Since then, Islam has eagerly studied Indian culinary traditions and cooking styles. He’s built a library of hundreds of books, some of which are on display in Opheem’s lounge, while others are at his home or in the test kitchen downstairs. But a lot of his knowledge comes from firsthand experience. He travels frequently and always spends time cooking with locals—that’s where the nuance comes from. 

“It’s great reading recipes, but to actually cook with someone from that part of the world and have them explain certain things is best,” he says. “Books are great because they are factual—everything’s written down in black and white. But with Indian food, recipes are guidelines. It’s how you cook and the reactions happening in the pan or with the spices. It’s a very personal thing. To cook alongside someone and hear their stories, you get the full essence of what they’re trying to do.” 

Islam began cooking as a teenager. At 13, he worked in his parents’ restaurant and later branched out to other eateries around England’s Midlands region. He opened his first restaurant in his 20s, but it wasn’t until he debuted Opheem in 2018 that Islam really hit his stride as a chef. The elegant, modern space (a former nightclub) was the ideal forum to showcase his own take on Indian dishes, regardless of region. It was an opportunity to put his vision at the forefront of his work. 

“I remember being 13 or 14 and being very opinionated,” he says. “When I started cooking, I would try to tell these older curry chefs what to do. Early on, I realized what we thought of as Indian food in England wasn’t true Indian food. We have this model for British curry houses, but the dishes there had very little to do with the root recipes or root inspirations. I wanted to fight that standard.”

Those older chefs usually told Islam to shut up and keep chopping onions. “I would sit there muttering to myself, ‘Someday I’ll show you,’” he says. “I’ve spent most of my life learning and then teaching people and trying to encourage the curry industry to come along on that journey with me. And that journey isn’t always about moving forward. It’s about looking to the past and to our roots.”

Opheem earned its first Michelin star in 2019, becoming the first Indian restaurant in the U.K. outside of London to do so. “It was a massive moment,” Islam remembers. “It was something I’d worked towards my whole life. At my [former] restaurants, I was involved with other people with so many opinions. One of them had said to me, ‘Nobody wants your fancy plates of shit.’ With Opheem, I could do whatever I wanted to do, irrespective of anyone’s opinion. Plus, I had enlisted a really young team, so when I got the star, I did it with a bunch of 19-year-olds.” 

In 2024, Opheem received a second star, becoming the first restaurant in Birmingham to achieve the honor. Although Islam won’t specifically say if he’s aiming for a coveted third star, it’s clear from the experience at Opheem that he and his team—now all grown up—are operating at an elite level. The service is precise, the experience is refined but not stuffy, and the dishes reflect years of detailed evolution. Certain plates, like the Orkney scallop and the aloo tuk, have been constants on the menu, continually tweaked to near perfection. Other dishes shift with the seasons—I had a beautifully presented iteration of asparagus in late May that had already been replaced with a tomato dish by mid-June. 

The fish broth, augmented with Cornish sea bass and gooseberries, initially seems like an unusual course. The fruity, slightly tart broth tasted like nothing I’d ever had in an Indian restaurant. But Islam says it’s actually one of the most traditional dishes he does. 

“People look at us and say that we’re very progressive, which we are, and they assume that the mainstream curry restaurant is what’s more authentic,” he says. “But in reality, Opheem is more authentic than any of those. That broth is cooked exactly how it would be in a home in a village somewhere in Bangladesh. All we do is we refine it by removing some of the impurities and by heightening the flavor of the acidity, the umami and so on.”

He adds, “In India, would they take a six-kilo bass and dry age it for a week in a salt aging chamber? No, they wouldn’t. But that’s the difference between us and them. But ultimately it’s about the flavor itself. What you had is the purest distillation of that flavor.” 

Opheem’s journey concludes with a nod to Birmingham rather than India. One of the desserts is titled “After Eight,” a nod to the British chocolate that is often handed out at the end of a restaurant meal. When Islam worked on Stratford Road, in an area known as the Birmingham Balti Triangle, as a teenager, guests often left with an After Eight in hand. His version is far more elegant and complex, but it hits the exact same chocolate and mint notes. 

“It’s an ode to that time and that part of my lived experience,” he says. “I wanted to nod to the traditions of Birmingham that have affected and influenced how I cook and what I cook.” 

If Opheem is a personal exploration of Indian cooking, Oudh 1722 is the result of personal interest. The restaurant showcases Islam’s interpretation of Awadhi tradition, a historical cuisine from Lucknow shaped by Persian, Mughal and Central Asian influences. Islam has gotten numerous opportunities over the years to expand Opheem or to open restaurants elsewhere, but he has generally resisted. Oudh 1722 is something else entirely. 

“I’ve always wanted Opheem to be a totally unique space in the world,” he says. “It’s food that comes from my heart, and it’s not going to be replicated anywhere else. At Oudh, it’s food I hold dear from a culture I revere, and I’m delivering it with my accent. In Europe, people always gravitate towards classical French as the best. In India, it’s the same with Lucknow.”

It features familiar dishes like biryanis and curries, as well as lesser-seen dishes like gilawat, a finely minced kebab that quite literally melts in your mouth. Islam describes the kebabs, invented in the 18th century, as historically “the height of decadence and sophistication.” 

“The Nawab [Wajid Ali Shah] wanted to be able to enjoy all the meaty flavors, but not even have to chew,” he says. “So you ended up with this kebab that’s soft and silky smooth, a bit smoky with all of the aromatic spices—it’s got 32 spices in it. To do that faithfully and do it properly is a lot of work and a lot of tradition. To be able to do that is absolutely awesome.” 

Islam’s latest fixation is on Indian tribal cooking, a style of cuisine rarely experienced outside of India. “The Indigenous tribes [in India] are still probably the largest group in the world,” he says. “That’s something that I’m looking into now because I want to learn more. It’s great learning about the royal courts and the finer side of cooking, but to understand something fully, you need to be able to look at everything from every possible angle.”

For Islam, it’s important to differentiate these styles for diners and to celebrate the differences around the country. “It still falls under one banner, but I want to try and break it down more,” he says. 

Coming up as a chef, Islam lacked a true mentor. He has primarily taught himself, though he acknowledges that Gordon Ramsay has given him a lot of valuable advice. The chef appeared on Ramsay’s Channel 4 series, The F Word, in 2010, a pivotal moment in his career. “He unlocked my potential,” Islam recalls. “He made me look at food and myself very differently. He told me, ‘If you believe it and invest in it and really put in the hard work, you can make it happen.’”

That’s advice Islam now passes on, both to his team and to other chefs in the U.K. Since Opheem’s success, several other fine-dining interpretations of Indian cuisine, like London’s BiBi, have emerged. He encourages chefs not only to do their own research, but also to find their own voice. 

“I’ve always been someone who is very supportive of anyone wanting to better themselves,” Islam says. “Where people get lost is looking at what we’re doing and thinking they can replicate it without fully investing in and understanding the cuisine. I’ve seen restaurants up and down the country emulate us, but a few times I’ve had to say to them, ‘You need to start doing food that represents you. Be on your own journey.’ I know that if you do food that represents you, you will reap the success.” 

He adds of his potential legacy, “I’ve been doing this a long time now. I think I was able to help a cuisine mature, and to help a cuisine that I love and respect start its next phase of the journey.”

To do that, Islam has played a long game, always indulging in his curiosity. His long-held sense of discovery means that there’s always something new to learn and always another dish to create.

Our boat has only just arrived at Cape Point, on the far southern point of South Africa’s Cape Peninsula, when one of the fishing lines begins to pull. It’s a sunny day at the end of April, the beginning of autumn in this part of the world, and it’s yellowtail season. We are on one of many small boats circling in hopes that the fish will bite. As it turns out, today is a particularly good day on the sea.

I’m fishing with Ryan Cole, executive chef at Cape Town’s Salsify at The Roundhouse, and his brother, Donovan, a commercial fisherman who runs Ocean Life Charters and supplies a lot of the seafood served at Salsify. They’ve been fishing here since they were kids—their father, Roy, was also a commercial fisherman—but the excitement of landing a catch is still palpable. As soon as one line is reeled in, another begins to pull. After less than an hour, there are 17 enormous yellowtail lying on the boat’s deck. Another 10, at least, were thrown back because they were too small.

For an amateur angler like myself, it feels like good luck, especially since some of the other boats aren’t so prosperous. “It isn’t luck,” Cole explains later that day, back in Salsify’s dining room. “You need to be able to read the signs and the conditions. That, for me, is the magic and the romance of fishing. And that’s what cooking is, too. You need to be able to see the signs. It becomes an extension of who you are. Donovan and I have been like this on the water, but I can feel it in the kitchen, too.”

Cole, now 37, grew up in Cape Town in a self-described “poor” family. His most vivid early memories are driving from his parents’ house in the back of his dad’s old van with his crew, hauling their fishing boat behind them. He was six the first time he went out on the boat, and he still goes fishing as often as possible.

“A lot of the commercial guys are out today [fishing], who have their own boats, learned to fish with my dad,” he says. “He’s like a living legend. I watched my dad toil and slave away to craft a living and provide for his family. I knew you had to work fucking hard. For me, the ocean has always been where food is from.” 

The fish we catch that morning in Cape Point can’t be sold (it has to be fished under a commercial license to do so), but it will be doled out to friends and family or donated to a local retirement home. Cole does, however, serve his brother’s catch at Salsify, paying a premium for first pick. When I dined at the restaurant a few days earlier, the yellowtail was presented raw and accompanied by coconut and mebos, a South African dried apricot. Later, Cole served kingklip, a white fish, with dressed prenia, a local succulent, and confit leek. But it isn’t just the sea that inspires Cole. Local ingredients like prenia and num num, a South African fruit, appear on the menu alongside more well-known ones.

“I spend my life outside,” Cole says. “When we’re not out at sea, I’m looking at landscapes and what’s around me. I’ve got a naturally inquisitive mind, so when I walk the dogs, I naturally veer off the path, and I’m like, ‘Fuck, what is that? Is this edible?’ I’m always looking for sources of inspiration. That’s how I got into foraging.”

All Cole ever wanted to do was become a chef. He remembers helping the lunch lady at school make sandwiches instead of joining the other kids on the playground when he was only four years old. In high school, he spent a week working in a hotel kitchen as his first apprenticeship, and was flummoxed when the chef asked him to fetch rocket—the British term for arugula. 

“It was a whole new world because there were so many things we didn’t grow up with,” he remembers. “We never had Parmesan or mozzarella. For me, cheese was orange. It was all a big discovery.”

After high school, the members of his mom’s church sponsored Cole for a practical apprenticeship, which served as a substitute for a more rigid culinary school experience. Despite admittedly struggling with authority, he was hungry to learn anything he could. “My attitude was, ‘I’m going to force myself to learn, and I’m going to be really good at this, and then I’m going to take your job,’” Cole remembers. 

At 21, he bought a one-way ticket to London—his first-ever flight. “I went with two suitcases,” he says. “One had my chef’s uniform and my knives. The other one had summer clothes. I had one hoodie. I landed in London in the middle of April, and it was freezing. I didn’t have a job, but I knew that I wanted to work at a place like The Square.”

His first gig was at Lawson Place, where he was put through the wringer before landing at The Square with chef Phil Howard. It surpassed his expectations. “That was its golden era, because they were trying to push for three Michelin stars at that time,” Cole notes. “So it was on everyone’s lips. It was just crazy the amount of talent that was in that kitchen over those three or four years. Phil’s approach is so restrained with beautiful ingredients, beautiful cooking, no fluff.”

Cole moved back to Cape Town in 2015 and eventually became head chef at The Test Kitchen, South Africa’s top restaurant at the time, under Luke Dale-Roberts. In 2018, he and Dale-Roberts had the opportunity to take over the restaurant space at The Roundhouse, a hillside historic building on the edge of Table Mountain in Camps Bay. The Roundhouse has a complicated past, rooted in the country’s tumultuous colonial history—it was an 18th-century guardhouse for the Dutch East India Company and later a British hunting lodge.

The building itself inspired the restaurant’s name. Cole dubbed it Salsify, after a root vegetable he first encountered at The Square. 

“It’s a beautiful vegetable,” he says. “The most incredible thing. It’s like an ‘aha moment’ when you cook it and eat it—like the world stops. The first time we walked in here, I said to Luke, ‘This place is like salsify. It’s sandy and gritty and disgusting, but if you peeled it back, you could get something really beautiful out of it.’”

Salsify at The Roundhouse opened in October 2018. The initial team consisted of only six people, including Nina du Toit, whom Cole met at The Test Kitchen. She’s now Cole’s romantic partner as well as the restaurant’s head chef. “We’ve been together since we opened Salsify, so I’ll never forget our anniversary,” Cole jokes.

Initially, there wasn’t much of a vision for Salsify’s menu. It began as an à la carte offering for lunch and dinner, but soon evolved into a tasting menu. Now, it’s a 10-course chef’s tasting menu, priced at approximately $130 per person. 

“Because I came from running The Test Kitchen, which was not my restaurant, I had to actively not cook what I would intuitively cook there,” Cole says. “So it was like untraining and retraining. I had to develop a completely new style. And I was still pretty young at the time, so I was still trying to figure out what I was trying to say with food.”

Cole admits he still isn’t completely sure what he wants to say with food. He likes to put the focus on his ingredients and to pay homage to his home country, as well as the building and location of Salsify. The food is South African because he is South African, but other than that, he doesn’t know what defines the food here.

“South Africa also doesn’t have much of a culinary identity,” Cole says. “With it being such a melting pot of so many different cultures, there isn’t one voice. I think we’re still very much developing it. But because we’re in a national park and in this historic building, I feel like we have to tell the story of where we are. It’s our responsibility to dig deep into South African culture and look past the obvious.”

An example is the Karoo lamb dish, a take on a South African “Seven Colours” meal. It’s traditionally served for lunch on Sundays and often includes meat, rice, vegetables and slaw. It seemed like an obvious thing to do, but Cole wanted to celebrate the local heritage and the communal feeling the meal generates. Salsify’s version includes lamb, rice and vegetable purees, as well as a lamb rib skewer on the side. 

“The lamb rib is based off of Donovan’s favorite way to eat lamb,” Cole says. “You cook it for five hours and get too drunk to know that it’s still on the fire and forget about it. It’s these kinds of playful interactions that contribute to the main course. Our service has a high level of detail, but I wanted to be approachable. The first time I ate in a fine-dining restaurant, which was The Square, it was the worst experience in the world. You feel like an imposter. I don’t want people to feel like that here.”

For Cole, it’s important to continue to reinvent Salsify. He changes out the décor in one of the dining rooms on a regular basis—it’s currently adorned with hundreds of elegantly folded old menus—and the menu is always evolving. He discovers a new ingredient almost weekly. Everything on the menu is sourced in Africa, including the caviar, which comes from Madagascar. Cole works with local farms, like Meuse Farm, which grows ingredients specifically for his menus. He’s always trying to do something new or something better. Since Salsify became independent from Dale-Roberts’ restaurant group in 2021, Cole has been the sole creative voice and can do whatever he wants. 

“We need to challenge ourselves because it’s human nature to want to do the same thing over and over,” Cole says. “But that equals death. It’s very difficult to constantly put yourself under that and through that, but at the same time, it forces you to go, ‘Well, fuck it.’ Today, I want to go sideways. Tomorrow, I want to walk backwards. And we can do it. Nobody is telling us we can’t.” 

Along with Salsify, Cole now helms Coy, a more casual, African-inspired restaurant in Cape Town’s V&A Waterfront, and Cabo Beach Club. He also runs the adjacent The Lawns at the Roundhouse, a beer and pizza garden. During the busy summer season, this means managing up to 500 employees across the four restaurants. But Cole isn’t daunted by the logistics. He wants to keep refining, keep improving and keep making his teams happy.

“I want everyone who works for me to do well, and I want the restaurants to do well,” he says. “This idea of ‘the best’ doesn’t exist. I want us to be everyone’s favorite in everything we do. I just want people to be like, ‘Fuck, I love that place so much.’ I want this to last, and I want this to be sustainable, and I want us to push as far as we can with what we have and see where it takes us. Because I don’t know what the end looks like.”

When we visit Meuse Farm, Cole and Du Toit showcase a traditional braai, a process of cooking over a wood fire. It’s not, as I’m told multiple times, the same thing as a barbecue. Cole cooks a whole yellowtail, caught by Donovan earlier in the week. After rotating it on the fire, Cole does almost nothing to it, instead presenting the fillets with lemon zest and salt. More yellowtail is sliced and served raw with some of the farm’s herbs and Salsify’s own hot sauce. Prenia reappears in a salad with charred broccoli. It’s a simpler version of Cole’s food, but it exemplifies his curiosity about what’s possible. 

“This is one of the most beautiful places in the world,” Cole says. “For me, Cape Town is paradise. Salsify is a story of our journey of discovery of where we are. I want it to be an expression of South Africa.”  

By showcasing the country’s bounty, an unexpected array of textures and flavors, Cole is doing just that. As it turns out, he is completely clear on what he wants his food to say.

Being stuck in an office or at a cramped desk at home can get tedious. And if the pandemic taught us anything, it’s that you can work from almost anywhere. While many people have since returned to the office, work has remained flexible for others. Having the right place to work remotely can make a huge difference in productivity. Light, atmosphere, location and views can impact how a space feels and what you can get done while there. And when you’re on the road, being stuck in a hotel room often starts to feel tedious and cramped, and can be isolating if you’re used to being in an office. Those in London, whether local or visiting, are in luck, as the city is quite conducive to remote working, especially if you enjoy answering emails with a good coffee in hand. 

The city’s many neighborhoods are filled with cafes and coffee shops that cater to remote workers looking for somewhere to meet with colleagues or a quiet working space, from the buzzy area of Shoreditch to the centrally-located Fitzrovia. Whether you’re looking for a quiet, discerning space to focus or a livelier option to keep the energy high, there is a WFH option out there for you (yes, even if you don’t have a Soho House membership to take advantage of). Here are 14 of the best cafes and coffee shops to work from home in London, including hotel lounges, hipster coffee joints and museum cafes.

FWD:Coffee

• 54 Farringdon Rd, London EC1R 3BL
• Multiple locations

If you want somewhere cool and casual to work, FWD:Coffee is just the place. They bill their three locations as “a space to socialize, think, create and get inspired,” which might be exactly what you need to get that screenplay or proposal over the line. The Farringdon address offers seating, big windows, and enough food options that you can spend the day there. Remote workers are welcome, rather than hustled out, making this a good choice if you have a lot to do.

Caravan King’s Cross

• 1 Granary Square, London N1C 4AA
• Multiple locations

Caravan’s original location, just north of King’s Cross station, has a massive dining room, as well as tables in the back where people can work or hang out over a cup of coffee. And Caravan’s coffee is particularly delicious—they typically have several brews, served along a full food menu. If it’s nice outside, there is an outdoor terrace with views of Granary Square. If Caravan is full, head around the corner to Redemption Roasters or down the street to Notes.

Gecko Coffeehouse

• 49 Bethnal Grn Rd, London E1 6LA

Plant-based eaters will be right at home at Gecko Coffeehouse, an independent coffee shop located in Bethnal Green. There’s a good selection of coffee and matcha, as well as brunch, lunch, and dinner. The vibe is chill and social, with plenty of neighborhood locals regularly turning up to work or to grab a latte. Laptops are welcome, making this a great pick for those in and around east London.

New Forms

• 9 Chelsea Manor St, London SW3 3TW

Chelsea’s New Forms is part cafe, part bar and part boutique record shop, and it has an impeccable vibe for a low-key work meeting or a brainstorming session. You can enjoy a good coffee during the day and then stick around for one of their evening events, where cocktails and light bites are on the menu. This is the sort of place you go if you want a work colleague to think you are effortlessly hip.

Frequency Bermondsey

• 157 Tower Bridge Rd, London SE1 3LW
• Various locations

Frequency has several locations around London, including near Paddington and Kings Cross, but the Angel Square spot, which opened in early 2026, is the best pick for remote workers looking for a nice place to sit. It has a lot of seating, big windows and most importantly, very good coffee. There is food available, including pastries, sandwiches and sweet treats. The brand also has meeting rooms available for rent by the hour or day in Kings Cross and Angel, which come with free coffee.

Redemption Roasters Holborn

• 71 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, London WC2A 3JA
• Various locations

There’s a plethora of seating at Redemption Roasters Holborn, a two-level coffee shop with a basement space that’s ideal for remote workers and meetings. It offers delicious coffee, as well as brunch, and during the warmer months, there’s outdoor seating that can be very popular. Redemption, which has 11 total locations in London, is known for its social impact, with a mission to train roasters and baristas from the prison system. Not only is it a comfortable spot to spend a few hours working, but every beverage supports a good cause. In North London, the Hampstead Heath location is also a good bet for WFH.

Attendant Coffee Roasters Shoreditch

• 74 Great Eastern St, London EC2A 3JL
• Various locations

Attendant Coffee Roasters is one of London’s favorite coffee brands, with four coffee shops around town. The Shoreditch location is best for remote work, with a peaceful interior and a breakfast and lunch menu that will keep you satiated. It’s relatively small, so it’s best for a meeting or a few hours on your computer rather than a full day. The shops in Clerkenwell and Mayfair are equally nice, and the original, a former Victorian restroom in Fitzrovia, is a fun brunch spot (although not great for laptop sessions).

Wellcome Collection Café

• 183 Euston Rd., London NW1 2BE

Located near Euston Station, the Wellcome Collection is a free museum and library dedicated to exploring health and the human experience. The museum’s café, which serves drinks and food such as sandwiches and cakes, is a well-kept secret for remote working. It welcomes laptops and encourages meet-ups, making it a great place to catch up on emails for a few hours. The museum is well-located for those catching a train from Euston or Kings Cross, or anyone staying in Marylebone or Bloomsbury.

Café at the Lavery

• 4 Cromwell Pl, South Kensington, London SW7 2JE

If an elegant, sophisticated aesthetic is important to your workday motivation, snag a table at the Café at the Lavery, previously known as Cromwell Place Café. Found inside Cromwell Place, a series of Kensington townhouses that host art exhibitions and events, the café is charming and quiet—and they specifically welcome solo working and meetings. It serves drinks, including Assembly coffee, alongside breakfast and lunch. Arrive early to secure your table of choice.

Barbican Cinema Café & Bar

• Beech St, London EC1Y 4SB

The Barbican is an underrated WFH spot in general, with lots of cafes and quiet areas scattered throughout the vast complex of museums and art spaces. The best is the Barbican Cinema Café & Bar, set in the lobby of one of the Barbican’s movie theaters. The café offers coffee, pastries and pizza. Laptops are welcome from 10 a.m. until 5 p.m., but they ask patrons to limit their stay to two hours if it’s busy. Elsewhere, visitors to the Barbican can find seats and tables around the Barbican’s lake or throughout its massive foyers.

In Positano, there is no escape from the crowds, who gather in hordes in the picturesque Amalfi Coast town between March and October. While Positano has become iconic for its colorful, cliffside buildings and umbrella-covered beaches, Praiano, its neighbor down the road, is less famous. Nestled on the cliff’s edge with endless views of the Tyrrhenian Sea, Praiano is just as scenic as its bustling neighbor to the west, but far more tranquil and, some argue, more authentic to the Italian way of life. 

The difference between Positano and Praiano, even during the quieter season, couldn’t be more stark. When I visited the area in late October, as many of the hotels were preparing to close for the winter, Positano was still heaving with people. The town felt like a tourist trap or a Disneyland attraction, created to evoke the feeling of the Amalfi Coast in the most cliched way. I left after only a few hours, eager to return to the charming streets of Praiano, which feel far less like a film set and more like a place where you might live. 

Home to approximately 2,100 people, Praiano is notably quaint, thanks in part to its small size, stretching along the Italian coast between Positano and Amalfi. It would perhaps go completely unnoticed by tourists if it were not home to Casa Angelina, a luxury hotel that was opened in 2005 by Antonino Cappiello, who transformed an existing 1970s property into something far grander. 

The hotel’s location offers the best view on the Amalfi Coast, at least according to Casa Angelina’s managing director, Domenico De Simone. From the town and from Casa Angelina, you can see Capri, Li Galli and Positano, offering a sense of the region’s true scope. “Praiano is the last village here that is authentic, real, genuine and very relaxed,” De Simone tells Observer. 

Casa Angelina is perched atop craggy cliffs on the western side of Praiano. Guests have access to La Gavitella Beach Club, a private club located down dozens of stairs, but the better way into town is via a discreet side door from the pool deck. It opens into the maze of narrow streets surrounding the hotel, where cats sun themselves, and teenagers roam playing music on a weekend afternoon. The streets eventually lead to Parrocchia di San Gennaro, the parish church, which first opened its doors in 1589. There are a few other hotels and apartment rentals, including the contemporary and intimate Hotel Onda Verde and the more budget-friendly La Divina Amalfi Coast, as well as some local shops and restaurants along the main road. Further east, the Marina di Praia, a hidden cove, is home to fishermen, cafes and an intimate beach. 

Travelers can easily access Positano, Amalfi and Ravello by car or bus. Casa Angelina offers an hourly shuttle that goes between the hotel and Positano (it takes less than 10 minutes), though De Simone notes that many guests don’t stay long, especially during the busier summer months, which is exactly what I experienced. “In the last two years, the real situation is that people go to Positano, spend a maximum of two hours there and have a very bad experience,” he says. 

Praiano is exceptionally well-located. “It is really easy for all of our guests to reach all the surrounding areas,” Antonia Gambardella, one of Casa Angelina’s concierge specialists, says. “Positano is an iconic destination, but it is really crowded. Praiano evokes an authenticity that the rest of the towns of the Amalfi coast are losing a little bit.” 

That idea of authenticity is repeated often. It’s something that’s hard to explain definitively, but you can certainly feel it. Praiano is smaller than the surrounding towns; it’s less than a square mile. Children play soccer in front of the church, and families go for weekend walks along the coast. Cafes are frequented by locals, who seem unbothered by visitors. Despite its size, there’s plenty to do. Praiano is situated in a key spot along the Path of the Gods, a hiking trail that extends from Bomerano to Nocelle. The entire trail, best traversed in spring or autumn when the weather is less intense, is about six kilometers long and takes the better part of a day due to the inclines. The catch is that to access the path from Praiano, you have to ascend nearly 1,000 stairs. It’s an intense climb, but worth it for the views. 

An easier walk is in town, where visitors can stroll to the Torre a Mare, a medieval tower, or follow the coastal road to Marina di Praia, which can be accessed on foot via a winding path. Unlike the crammed beach clubs in Positano, the small beach at the Marina di Praia is secluded and often filled with locals. It’s there that Di Martino recommends Trattoria Da Armandino, a family-owned waterside restaurant that has been around for more than 100 years. “The seafood is very fresh because the fishermen catch it in the morning and then they serve it at night,” she says. 

“This particular restaurant is iconic all around the Amalfi Coast because it is one of the few restaurants that still has their own fishermen,” Gambardella adds. “It’s usually older fishermen out on their boats at 2 a.m., and in the morning they bring everything that they catch during the night. Praiano is famous for totani, which are a kind of squid that has to be caught during the night.”

Totani, a variety of European squid, are found in the waters along the Amalfi Coast. They are so plentiful that Praiano has a signature dish made from them known as totani e patate, a combination of squid and potatoes sautéed with olive oil, tomatoes and garlic. It’s a rustic dish, but hearty and surprisingly light. It’s available in many of the restaurants, but those who want to better understand the connection between the sea and plate can join Casa Angelina for a nighttime squid fishing expedition. The experience is available between May and September, depending on sea and weather conditions, and is a great way to be part of the local tradition.

Enjoying seafood is important in Praiano. Although travelers can find the expected Italian fare, like pasta and pizza, around the Amalfi Coast, simple dishes of fresh fish, especially totani and pezzogna, reflect what the residents eat, again offering a genuine experience of the area. Other noteworthy dining options include La Taverna del Leone, a family-owned spot that dates back to 1965, and Ristorante Km0, a newer restaurant that focuses on hyper-local ingredients and also offers cooking classes. For breathtaking views, book a terrace table at Il Pirata Ristorante. 

There is less shopping in Praiano than in Positano, but what you do find is often more interesting. Peruse La Bacheca for gift-worthy homemade ceramics. At Rosalinda Flowers Lab, which provides floral arrangements for high-end weddings, passersby will often encounter an older man weaving flower baskets outside.

“Praiano almost brings us back to ancient times, where there were more emotional and family connections,” Gambardella says. “We have some guests who leave from our shortcut, and they say, ‘I found your neighbor, and he asked me to come inside and drink some coffee.’ That is really simple, but at the same time, it is so authentic and so emotional that in more famous parts, you cannot find it. Over here, there’s a piece of life that is calm. You feel the rhythm of the local life, and that is very beautiful.” 

In October, Praiano was calm to the point of almost feeling abandoned—except, of course, for the cats. Positano, on the other hand, was chaotic and loud. It’s not surprising; Positano attracts more than 12,000 daily visitors between Easter and October and nearly 5 million visitors annually. There are no numbers widely available for Praiano, but it’s likely far less. It gets busier in July and August, like the rest of the coast, although it’s not felt in the same way as Positano. Traveling during the shoulder seasons in spring and autumn can help ensure complete tranquility. 

That serene feeling is augmented by views of the water and the intense sunsets that unfold each evening. They were especially concentrated in hue in October, which many of Casa Angelina’s employees said is characteristic of the time of year. Some locals even refer to Praiano as the “sunset town.”

“Every sunset, every month, every year is different,” De Simone confirms. “You come to the Amalfi Coast and to Praiano and to Casa Angelina to see the sunsets and the panorama.” 

The allure of the Amalfi Coast is certainly undeniable, particularly the way it’s framed on Instagram, where the crowds are often cropped out. Positano’s over-tourism can be overwhelming and detract from what a trip to the region should feel like. While there are several compelling destinations nearby, including Ravello and Atrani, for a certain type of traveler, it’s more appealing to base yourself outside the tourist fray. Praiano may not be as dramatic as Positano, but it has something more important: the feeling that you are home.